October 17, 2026

Faults And Fixes

50 Tips From driving and iron play to putting, tough lies and strategy, it’s all covered in the Big 50, including easy tips to groove a foolproof swing and gear advice from the brightest minds in golf.

Pro Files If you really want to play like a Tour pro, you need to study the guys who make their living on the toughest courses in the world, and that’s just what the Pro Files are all about. Pay close attention to the techniques highlighted within, with an eye toward absorbing and mastering them. Before long, they’re sure to pay dividends.

Try This! At times it seems there are an endless number of swing flaws, and an equally endless number of training aids to go with them. To improve, however, it’s critical to determine exactly which faults you need to fix, and which training aid is best suited for the job. Check these out, because they’re some of the best-designed aids you’re likely to find.

Gear Effects Any accomplished player will readily confess that the right equipment can have an enormous effect on both shotmaking and scoring. With this in mind, members of Golf Tips’ esteemed Equipment Panel provide their insights on a number of topics, including how to choose an anti-slice driver, how to assemble a wedge set, and more.

Ten Tips For Solid Drives
1. Create A Launching Pad
Establishing an address position that maximizes power is key for long drives. This type of setup (left) features flared feet, flexed knees, a drivinglaunchpad.jpgright shoulder that’s lower than the left and pushed slightly back, and a head placed well behind the ball. The flared feet allow the body to rotate more freely for increased speed, while the flexed knees lower your center of gravity and make you more athletic and dynamic, which is a must for explosive movement. Keeping the right shoulder low and the head back helps create a more inside attack. This approach not only promotes a right-to-left shot shape and an on-plane swing path, but keeps shots like the slice at bay.

Don Wood2. Gear Effects: The BIGGER The Better
Don Wood, President, For Golfers only!

When driver heads first passed the 300cc threshold, it seemed that was as big as a driver could get, but now, club designers and manufacturers are limited only by the USGA ceiling of 460cc. This size seams outrageous only until you hit a few long, straight drives with one of these titanium behemoths. But what are the real benefits of such tremendous size, and is it the size of the head or the size of the clubface that really benefits the golfer? The answer is both. Driver head size and face size go hand in hand, as do their respective benefits. The large clubhead volume permits a low and deep CG placement, which helps provide the optimum combination of low spin and high launch characteristics mandatory for the production of distance. The large clubface provides an effective hitting area that’s more forgiving and less demanding of precision. Also, by necessity, modern, large clubfaces have to be thinner-walled, which makes them inherently more flexible. Face flexibility at the point of contact, commonly known as spring-like or trampoline effect or COR (coefficient of restitution), plays a significant role in a driver’s ability to provide maximum distance. The bottom line is if you want to hit the ball longer and straighter, consider getting yourself one of the new, large-headed drivers with a large, thin clubface.


3. Swivel Your Head
During the backswing, allowing your head to swivel to the right with the rotation of the shoulders will facilitate a much greater shoulder turn and a much greater potential for power. This move also will place less strain on your neck and back, as your head won’t be locked in place. Jack Nicklaus was known to start with his head in a pre-cocked position for just this reason. Swiveling your head on the backswing effectively adds power by allowing you to make a larger swing (check the sequence below).

Swing

Tiger Driving4. Pro Files: Copy Tiger’s extension past impact for more distance
Few people in the world drive the ball with more authority than Tiger Woods. But while most golf fans probably think he generates his impressive power through physical strength and sheer athleticism, one of his biggest keys is the way in which he freely releases the club through impact. Notice how Tiger’s arms are fully extended past his body, with the clubhead pointing straight down the target line. This full arm extension, which features no muscle interference or tension of any kind, is an absolute must for the production of clubhead speed and power, because it allows the clubhead to actually accelerate through the ball. This type of swing is accomplished by leveraging and releasing the body, rather than by sheer muscle strength.

5. Extend For Power
Through impact, the arms should be thrown out, away from the body and not connected to the chest. This move not only generates power, but also helps create the proper release of the club. Contrary to popular belief, the arms shouldn’t be in front of the body at impact; they should be on the right side of the body. Try to think of your arms reaching the ball when your belt buckle is facing the target. If it feels like your arms are sucking into your torso, try to exaggerate the feeling of rotation–your arms should start to shoot out by themselves.


6. Try This! Swing Magic Driver
The new Kallassy Swing Magic Driver provides the same level of full-swing training as the original Swing Magic, but in a driver-length, wood-headed design. The Swing Magic Driver features a special split-handle sliding grip, a transition clip (which allows each individual to customize his or her desired set position at the top of the swing), and a flared right-hand grip, which helps reduce tension and promote a more relaxed hand action. The Swing Magic Driver is designed to teach a mechanically sound, rhythmic swing that allows a player to feel the club swing through impact. Other benefits of the Swing Magic Driver include increased shaft loading, improved tempo and acceleration, and the development of a slightly inside-out swing path for reduced slicing. Also available in left-handed and junior models. For more information, visit www.swingmagic.com.

Jamie Pipes7. Gear Effects: Light Is Right
Jamie Pipes, PGA, Product Development, UST Golf Shafts

Golfers who want to increase swing speed should consider improving their technique and their level of flexibility and fitness. However, there are simple equipment changes that can be made to help add speed and power. The most obvious step is to determine if your driver is set up for optimum distance. In many cases, golfers are using drivers that don’t have enough loft for their particular swing speed, which effectively limits carry and overall distance. The basic formula for maximum distance is high launch and low spin, and a driver with too little loft will accomplish neither of these goals. Equally if not more important is shaft flex and weight. Using a shaft that’s too stiff or too heavy can significantly limit swing speed and driving distance. If you’re not hitting the ball as far as you’d like, try switching to the lightest and most flexible shaft you can control. This will allow the shaft to do as much work as possible during the swing and will help increase clubhead speed.

Vincent Benoit8. Gear Effects: Eliminate The Slice
Benoit Vincent, Chief Technical Officer, TaylorMade Golf

Helping golfers who struggle with a slice was our primary goal in designing the new TaylorMade r5 D driver. We approached this challenge by packaging the elements we know reduce slicing into a dedicated product•–a driver meant for slicers, not the full range of golfers. The elements that we found critical for the reduction of slicing in average golfers were a two-degree closed clubface (we did this rather than offsetting the head, which distracts some golfers), a CG that’s located significantly toward the heel of the club (which helps the toe of the club release past the heel through impact), as well as a tip-flexible shaft that further aids in the release of the clubhead. These design elements are critical to overcoming a slice off the tee, and any golfer who has a chronic problem with slicing should try our r5 D, or another club that features at least one or more of these known, anti-slice design elements. Good luck!

9. Follow The Ball
A common mistake recreational golfers make is keeping their head down for too long in the downswing, which hinders the amount of turn, and power, they can produce. Instead, it’s best to let your head rotate with the downswing of your shoulders, which should let you follow the ball as it comes off the clubface and heads toward the target. Loosening your head movement through impact will speed up the rotation of your body toward the target, making it much easier to finish your swing.


Swing Around Right10. Swing Around Not Under
Moving the shoulders and club more around (big photo)_Ê and less up and down (small photo) into the finish creates a swing that’s athletic and uninhibited. It also makes it easier to produce a right-to-left Swing Around Wrongballflight, which is obviously the best way to get rid of a slice. Another reason this move is helpful is it gets the body out of the way of itself, meaning it won’t interfere with its own movement. When the weight travels around the body, it allows for rotational movement and improved balance.

Ten Tips For Iron Shots
11. Get On Top At Impact
Maintaining a stacked position (chest on top of knees)_Ê through impact allows you to strike the ball with a descending blow, reducing the chance of thin or fat shots and producing divots that start at the ball and continue beyond it. Solid iron shots are all about compressing the ball against the ground, which requires ball-first-grass-second contact. If your chest is pointed behind the ball, the club will bottom out early, creating heavy scoops and thin shots. But if you stack your chest over your lower body, you won’t have to try to hit down on the ball–your arms will simply extend into the correct position.

12. Gear Effects: Tell A Lie
John Tudor, CEO, Savile Row Golf

Every golf club is built with several key specifications, one of the most important being lie angle–the angle formed by the golf shaft and the sole of the golf club at address. The lie of the golf club determines how the face rotates through impact, a phenomenon that can negatively affect your shots if the lie angle is incorrect. For example, if the lie angle is too flat, the toe of the golf club will be lower than the heel at impact and the ball will fly right of target. If the lie angle is too upright, the heel of the club will be lower than the toe at the point of contact and the ball will fly left of target. The lie angle effect is most noticeable in mid- and low-irons.

Lie angle doesn’t function autonomously. The overall length of the golf club controls the lie of a particular club set. If the clubs are a 1__ã2 inch too long, the lie will become one degree upright. Conversely, if the clubs are a 1__ã2 inch too short, the lie will be one degree flat. Each 1__ã2 inch change in length, either way, will effect lie angle by one degree.

Clubhead design also can influence the dynamic lie of the golf club. A club with the majority of its mass positioned in the center of the face (as seen in a traditional forged blade) forces the toe downward 1__ã8 inch during the strike phase of the golf swing. A golf club with the majority of its mass around the toe (as seen in a cast, cavity-back blade) could force the toe downward as much as a 1__ã2 inch.

Therefore, at address, the toe of the forged club should be 1__ã8 inch off the surface and the toe-weighted club should between 1__ã8 to 1__ã2 inch off the surface. Most golfers fail to acknowledge these basic spec requirements. If you’re serious about your game, then have your lie angles checked by a clubfitting professional. Those unexplainable, wayward shots, either left or right, may not be your fault after all.


13. Stay Put
irons_buttonline_good-copy.jpg Keeping your backside on the line it began against at address (right) ensures that you won’t get closer to the ball through the swing. Keeping away from the ball in this manner produces solid contact on the clubface and keeps the angle of the clubshaft from becoming too steep at impact. Most people move closer to the ball, which prevents the arms from extending through impact, sapping power and accuracy.

14. Try This! Synca-Swing
Proper tempo and speed is critical to any successful golf shot. The problem is that both parameters are difficult to discern. Sure, any golfer can sense fast from slow, but those small yet critical differences from one swing to the next are beyond typical human delineation. The Synca-Swing ($150) training device is no human and is one of the more fascinating self-learning tools we’ve seen. Simply attach the Synca-Swing unit to any shaft and begin making swings. As you do, the Synca-Swing records the timing and speed of each. Eventually, best swing timing and speed values are developed, to which you can compare future swings for every club in the bag. Better yet, data from the Synca-Swing can be downloaded to your PC or Mac and analyzed with user-friendly charts and graphs. The graphs allow you to compare hundreds of practice swings to your best, visually indicating speed rises and drops during different segments of the swing. It’s great for practice and for grooving your best swing before teeing off. Visit www.syncaswing.com for more information.

Sergio15. Pro Files: Get Your Left Arm And Shaft In Line like Sergio For Straighter Shots
Touring professionals like Sergio not only hit the ball a long way, but they’re also amazingly accurate, even with the long irons. Of course, talent plays a significant role in creating this enviable combination of distance and direction, but there’s one thing every top-quality player does in his or her swing that makes straight hitting possible. Notice how Sergio has his left arm lined up almost perfectly with the shaft of the club at the top of his swing. This position allows for an aggressive move through the ball without the need for any manipulation during the downswing, making for both great accuracy and speed. If you’re serious about hitting longer and straighter shots, pay close attention to this position and spend some time integrating it into your swing. Once you do, you’ll be able to swing as hard as you want and still have confidence.

Jeff Jackson16. Gear Effects: If You Go Light, Go Heavy In The Change
Jeff Jackson, Director of Marketing, Tour Golf

Balance point, torque, flex–these are all highly influential shaft specifications. But if you really want to alter shot shape and trajectory, as well as your ballstriking ability, consider a weight change. A switch to a lighter shaft allows for a longer club, which in turn creates a longer swing arc and potentially more distance. In addition, a lighter club is easier to swing. Most steel iron shafts check in at 125 grams; the lighter-weight graphite iron shaft models weigh as little as 90 grams. Such a drastic change in weight could have a positive, practical effect on your game. Most fitting experts agree, however, that at least a 40-gram change in weight is needed to produce tangible results (considering similar balance points). In the past, when golfers went with a lighter shaft in their irons, they had to opt for graphite. Today, the market offers numerous ultra-lightweight steel models. So if you’re looking for more power and more accuracy in your iron game, yet still desire the consistency of steel, there are more options now than ever before.


Tom Wishon17._Ê Gear Effects: Add Forgiveness, Not Height
Tom Wishon, Founder, Tom Wishon Golf Technology

Every golfer could use a little forgiveness, but if you shop the latest game-improvement iron models, you’ll find most promise forgiveness, but with a low center of gravity. The low CG positioning is what helps launch the ball high. But what if you need forgiveness, not height? Clubmaking 101 tells us that shot forgiveness in an iron is controlled by the clubhead’s weight distribution all around the CG. Therefore, it can definitely be independent of simply placing more weight low in the clubhead to lower the CG. If you need help on off-center hits, but desire a lower ballflight, look for cavity-back designs with reduced sole widths. With reduced mass in the sole, weight is automatically distributed to the heel and toe areas (adding forgiveness) and away from the bottom of the head, which raises the CG and prevents high shots. Of course, if you need forgiveness and extra help getting the ball into the air, a wide cavity design with a large sole width should do the trick.

finish-high.jpg18. Keep Your Hands Low
Limiting the height of the followthrough will effectively reduce the height of your shots. The lower the hands, the lower the ballflight. Moving the ball back in your stance or selecting a stronger club and trying to swing easy are other ways to accomplish the same thing, but they’re less reliable and more difficult to execute. Instead, simply keep your hands low in the finish (compare the two photos at left), and the trajectory of your shots will be low as well.

19. Give Your Spine The Forearm
Making sure you’re on-plane at the top of the swing is a surefire way to guarantee solid ballstriking and increased accuracy. Notice in the photo below how my right forearm is parallel to my spine, my left wrist is flat and my level elbows and arms form a tight triangle. These are indications that I’ve rotated my shoulders into the backswing rather than simply lifted up my arms.

20. Use Your Body For Power
Every good golfer knows that power comes from the body, not the arms. To learn to power the club with your body instead of your arms and hands, put the club behind the ball at address, Spinewith your body in a dead-stop position. Without taking a backswing, try to drag the ball into the air. If you’re a player who uses his or her hands to control the club, you’ll probably struggle at first. However, you’ll quickly find that once you start moving the club with your body, you’ll begin to get the ball in the air more consistently. Practicing this drill regularly will teach you how to use your body for the pivot, instead of your arms. Remember, the proper sequence of movement should be body first, then arms, then the club.

Ten Tips For Perfect Putting
21. Straight Back And Through
If you prefer this type of stroke, move the putter by swinging your arms parallel to the target line with little wrist action. Furthermore, play the ball forward in the stance, with the feet slightly open and close together, and your weight leaning left. The handle of the putter should stay perpendicular to the ground during the stroke, with the right palm facing the target in the finish.

22. Get An Alternative Grip
These types of grips, like the saw or the claw, are becoming more popular due to the success of Tour players like Chris DiMarco, Tim Herron and Mark O’Meara. These alternative methods minimize the involvement of the right hand during the stroke, allowing the bigger muscles in the body to control the club. This technique can completely eliminate the yips, and makes the stroke noticeably smoother. Only minor adjustments to the right-hand grip are needed to use these methods.

23. Pro Files Arc Players
The arc putting stroke, used by many Tour pros (including Jay Haas) creates a natural, free-flowing motion. To execute this stroke properly, the forearms must rotate with the face of the putter opening and closing relative to the target. This move creates the desired inside-square-inside arc. This stroke is most effective with the ball played in the center of the stance, with the feet and shoulders square and the body weight evenly distributed. The grip end of the club should be pointing at the naval throughout.


24. Try This! Eye Trainer Putter
In putting, there are two absolute setup musts: eyes over the target line, and putter aimed directly at the target. Sounds easy, but even the best putters in the world constantly practice to ensure these setup musts are achieved. For golfers without the benefit of constant instruction and practice, the task is even more difficult. Enter the Eye Trainer ($130), a unique learning device (which also can legally be used during play after removing the unit’s Training Bridge) that teaches golfers to achieve the two key setup requirements. An elongated sight line helps establish a square face to the target, with the sole of the putter resting flat on the putting surface. To ensure eyes over the target line, all the golfer must do is move his or her body forward or back to align two notches with two squares on the rear of the putterhead. VoilÊ!

25. Flatten It Out

One of the biggest mistakes made by recreational golfers on the putting green is holding their hands too high, and cupping their left (for a right-handed golfer) wrist through impact. These two moves allow the clubhead to pass the hands, and at the same time, adds loft to the putter. The result is typically bad impact with the putter striking the ground before the ball, or putts that bounce too much due to the extra loft. Instead, be sure to let your arms hang down freely, and keep your left wrist flat all the way into the finish.

26. Gear Effects: Don’t Forget The Hosel
Benoit Vincent, Chief Technical Officer, TaylorMade Golf

A putter should provide at least two or three degrees of launch angle to get the ball above the level of the grass and rolling toward the target. Depending on where the hosel is inserted, and what type of shape it has, a given putter will have a tendency to close or open through impact, or add or subtract loft. The important thing is to find the combination that works for your particular stance, grip and stroke. Much of this is based on experimentation, but there’s excellent putter-fitting technology as well.

27. Gear Effects: Balance Your Putting
Mitch Voges, Founder, Max Out Golf Labs

Counterbalancing (adding weight to the butt end of the club) has proven to be valuable in putting and wedge play. The reason is that counterbalancing places more weight in the player’s hands, adding an extra degree of feel and control, particularly for those players who tend to manipulate the club with their arms and hands. Counterbalancing also helps the golfer to control the putter with the shoulders and bigger muscles, which in turn promotes rolling the ball rather than hitting at it. Very few, if any, accomplished players hit at the ball, which is why they look so smooth and relaxed when they make a putting stroke.

28. Gear Effects: Putter Length Is Key
Jeff Jackson, Marketing Director, Tour Golf

The length of your flatstick is perhaps the most important parameter when it comes to putter fitting. If you correctly match length to your putting posture, you’ll ensure consistent eye, shoulder and arm position in relation to the golf ball. Most putter models are offered with a standard length of 35 inches, although a number of studies indicate that, for most golfers, 35 inches is too long. The correct length (and lie angle) should allow you to assume a comfortable putting posture with your arms hanging naturally from your shoulder sockets and your eyes positioned directly over the ball.

29. Lag With Purpose
Looking at the hole while lag putting can have a profound effect on your ability to get the ball close to the target on a consistent basis. Not only is this method dependable, it’s also more natural for anyone who has played sports like baseball or basketball, where the target is the focus rather than the ball. Use this technique to get the ball real close to the hole instead of just near.


Through The Gate30. Stroke Through The Gate
Most golfers invariably start the ball on a line that will never give the ball a chance of going in the hole. A good fix is to create a gate for the ball to roll through at the apex of a breaking putt. Practice setting up the gate with a couple of tees on both right-to-left and left-to-right breakers, and see how quickly you can pick the right spot and speed.

Ten Tips For Escaping Trouble
31.The Long Bunker Shot
This is one of the most challenging shots in golf for pros and amateurs alike, but it doesn’t have to be. Instead of trying to blast a long bunker shot with a sand wedge or pick the ball clean, try using an 8- or 9-iron, and execute the shot the way you normally would. Be aware that the ball will come out lower than it does with a sand wedge and will release more as well.
_Ê
32. From A Divot
Every golfer has a perfect drive ruined from time to time by a ball ending up in the middle of a sand-filled divot. When this happens, there are some simple steps you can take to promote a good result despite the bad break. Begin by placing slightly more weight on your front leg•–you want to be sure to have your chest over or in front of the ball at impact. Then, be certain to fire your right side all the way through the shot. This will help ensure ball-first contact and a clean escape.

Over The Lip

33. Over The Lip
When the lip of the bunker is higher than your head, your goal should be simply to get the ball out of the hazard on the first try. One of the keys to accomplishing this is creating a setup that produces a high shot. This means opening your shoulders and the clubface as wide as you can. But the real trick to getting out of deep bunkers is adopting a stronger grip with the left hand and maintaining the bend in the wrist from address through impact and even into the finish. Doing so will make the ball fly out high and soft every time.

34. Gear Effects: Know Your Bounce
Don Wood, President, For Golfers only!

Wet course conditions, and specifically wet bunkers, can be extremely challenging for all types of golfers. As such, it’s even more critical that you pay extra attention to the loft and bounce built into your wedges. For wet conditions, it’s best to have wedges that feature a relatively high degree of bounce (at least 16 degrees for a 56-degree model), as well as a fair amount of loft. Most golfers are better-served by a 58- or 60-degree wedge for normal sand; in wet conditions, a higher-bounce utility wedge tends to work the best. It’s not a bad idea, however, to have one higher-bounce wedge and one with lower bounce.


harman-todd.jpg35. Gear Effects: The Rough Stuff
Todd Harman, Dir. Product Marketing, Cleveland Golf

To determine what type of iron or wedge is best for thick rough and generally soft course conditions, you have to pay close attention to the design of the clubhead. Typically, irons with wider soles are better suited for these types of conditions than ones with more traditional, thinner soles. A wider sole has more effective bounce, which helps these clubheads glide through heavy grass more easily. When it comes to wedges, the same rule generally holds true, but be aware that wide-sole wedges don’t work well from tight lies._Ê

36. Gear Effects: Hybrids Are Here To Stay
Don Wood, President, For Golfers only!

The hybrid’s popularity is due to the fact that its design combines the best attributes of both

Give Your Slice The Elbow Over the years, there has been an ongoing debate regarding the proper position of the right elbow at the top of the backswing. Some players like John Daly swing with their elbow flying out, while others like Sergio Garcia keep it in, proving that it’s possible to hit great shots with either method. However, my biomechanical studies with PGA Tour pros using the K-Vest, developed by Bentley Kinetics, indicate that the flying right-elbow position favors a fade ballflight while a tucked right elbow promotes a draw. If you struggle with slicing or have always wanted to develop a power-rich draw, then the right elbow may hold the answer. Plus, when you let the right elbow fly, it has the tendency to raise the right shoulder skyward, which almost always causes an over-the-top move during the downswing. Unfortunately, golfers often try to fix this over-the-top move with various compensations that simply don’t last.

The key for long-term success is to eliminate the faulty shoulder tilt and right-elbow position at the top. The most efficient right-elbow position for keeping slices at bay and promoting a draw is on or just inside the seam running down the right side of your shirt. When you place your right elbow in this general area, it allows the shoulders to turn level to the spine, making it much easier to drop the club inside on the downswing, creating maximum power and control. This doesn’t mean you glue your right elbow to your side, but if you tighten your shoulder turn and monitor your right-elbow position at the top, I guarantee you’ll gain more feel and control of the club.

Tom Stickney is the director of instruction at the Club at Cordillera (www.tomstickneygolf.com) in Vail, Colo.

Home RemediesPosture
When it comes to posture, the key is to establish your natural spine angle, which will allow the body to rotate freely throughout the golf swing.

A good training aid to help improve your posture can be fashioned with a broomstick, sponge, six-inch ruler, scissors, pen and a belt.

Draw three lines down the center of the sponge, each 1 1__ã4 inches in length. Space the lines equally apart. Next, use the scissors to cut through the sponge the length of each line through to the other side, then place the broomstick through the middle slit of the sponge. Fasten a belt around your waist and insert the broomstick, with the sponge at the top, between your back and your belt. The broomstick should rest snugly against your tailbone.

While standing straight, position the sponge so that it touches the back of your head (make sure the broomstick is in the appropriate slit according to your spine angle). With your arms hanging at your sides, tilt from the hips so that your arms now hang in front of you, approximately six to eight inches away from your thighs. The key to this drill is to keep both points of contact (tailbone and head) intact while in the tilted position. If you bend your spine instead of bending from the hips, your head will move away from the sponge, breaking the contact needed to maintain your natural posture.jpgspine angle. This drill develops a fuller turn in the backswing and a much more complete finish.

Stance, Ball Position And Alignment
Most likely you’ve seen a baseball player step into the batter’s box as he readies himself to receive a pitch. It’s a delicate and structured procedure, beginning with the positioning of the feet and a shuffle to find a comfortable stance, and ending with the setting of the hands, arms and legs comfortably in unison.

If you were to emulate such a player, you’d find no trouble in establishing a fundamentally sound stance. Here’s how, using nothing more than five ordinary yardsticks.

Place two of the yardsticks horizontally, about two feet apart and place two vertically at each end, forming a batter’s box, and the fifth inside for ball alignment purposes.

Take your grip and step into the box with your right foot while tilting from your hips to help lower the club to the ground. Next, take your left foot and place it in the forward portion of the box to establish your ball position in relation to your left foot (in the middle for a wedge, and toward the left heel for a driver).

Complete your stance by moving your right foot away from your left to establish the width of your stance (hip-wide for a wedge, shoulder-wide for a driver). Emphasis should be placed on the continuous movement throughout the routine of your hands, arms and legs to help you get relaxed and ready to make your best swing.


The Swing
Ordinary household items can also be used to develop better rotation and balance, two of the more influential factors of contact and ballflight.

Take a bucket and place it on the ground, approximately six feet down your intended target line. Stand parallel to the target line and place a 5-iron against your upper chest with crossed arms. The clubhead should be to the right of you (for right-handed players, opposite for lefties). With the club in place, tilt from your hips into your posture-ready position. Now, rotate your shoulders to the point where they’re 90 degrees to your spine, with your back facing the target.

PuttingWhen attempting this, imagine the clubhead flying off the shaft and landing in the bucket. This will promote the proper tilting of the right shoulder (a down-and-under motion) as well as the correct hip rotation and balance. As you progress with this exercise, move the bucket farther and farther down the target line to emphasize a more complete finish.

Putting
You can perfect your putting stroke with two Styrofoam cups and a wooden dowel, shaft or string.

When it comes to putting, it’s important to aim the putter correctly, with the clubface perpendicular to the target line. And it’s equally important to take the putter straight back and straight through. My Styrofoam cup training aid will encourage the proper execution of both. Take the wooden dowel and insert it into each of the Styrofoam cups approximately a half-inch from the bottom (use scissors to puncture the holes for the wooden dowel). A piece of string that’s taped to the bottom of the cups will also do the trick. Now, flip the cups over so that the dowel or string is above the ground. The dowel will act as an elevated target line and should be approximately four to five inches above the ground. Simply practice your stroke underneath the dowel, using it to align your putterface square to the target line while keeping the putterhead low to the ground and moving straight along the target line. Practice this drill and you’ll soon develop a solid and dependable putting stroke.

Chipping
Although it’s tempting to hit chips indoors, all it takes is one broken lamp to realize that golf is an outdoor activity. Nevertheless, you can improve your chipping technique within the friendly confines of your own living room with the help of a wooden dowel or broken golf shaft.


ChippingTake the dowel and place it through the hole on the top of the grip on a pitching wedge. Push the dowel roughly eight to 12 inches down the butt end of the shaft (a little Vaseline may help the dowel slide easier through the clubshaft). Two to three feet of the dowel should extend outward from the top of the grip.

Now, practice your chipping motion, making sure that your left wrist remains rigid as the clubface passes through the impact zone. If your left wrist breaks down (a flaw that can cause a lot of short-game misery), you’ll feel the protruding portion of the dowel hit against your left side. In addition to guarding against wrist breakdown, the dowel will also help you to establish the proper hands-forward position at address–a crucial factor for clean contact.

The dowel will also force you to keep your hands moving forward and swing the club down the target line in the followthrough. Once you master this drill, you’ll be able to get up and down with the best of them.

As you perform these drills, you’ll begin to see the value of other everyday items in helping you improve your game. Don’t be afraid to experiment–you may just develop the next must-have training aid.

Special thanks to instruction model, PGA professional Rick Avina. Avina instructs at El Cid Country Club in Mazatl__n, Mexico.

Learn the 10 best swing tips from our top instructors.

Slice Compensation If you’re one of the millions of golfers who battles a slice, odds are you compensate for the left-to-right ballflight by aiming to the left. However, no matter how far to the left you aim, the ball still slices to the right–sometimes worse than it did before. On the occasion you do hit it straight, well, it doesn’t do you much good because you were aimed toward the trees or deep rough on the left. Hmm–you’re doing what you think will fix the problem, but it’s only making the problem worse.

If this sounds like you, fear no more. There’s hope and a solution to this common slice problem. The key to ridding oneself of a slice is to understand two principles that apply to how you set up and address the ball. Much like a blueprint tells a contractor how to build an edifice, your setup dictates how you swing and in what direction you’ll apply force to the golf ball. Secondly, despite what you might think, often the setup to avoid slicing is the one that might appear to be the most counterintuitive.

Let’s take a closer look at the slice effects of a faulty setup.

Cause: Overcompensation
Most golfers who aim left aren’t actually aiming left. They think they are by addressing the ball with an open stance and open shoulders. But in doing so, most slicers tend to forget to reposition the clubface angle and ball position. The result is an open body aiming left, a clubface square to the target and a ball position too far back in the stance. These swing ingredients are a gourmet recipe for a slice. Opening the stance and shoulders only makes things worse.

Effect: An Outside-In Swing Path
When the body is too open at address, no matter in what direction the clubface points, the club is set to travel on an outside-in swing path, which invariably results in a smothered hook or a pulled slice due to the left-to-right spin imparted on the golf ball. With open lines to the target, the club naturally gets stuck behind the body at the start of the downswing. Instinctively, your mind instructs the upper body to swing the club violently to the left. Fore, right! Unless you cultivate an in-out swing, you’ll always slice or pull-hook the ball.

Solution: Aim Right!
If you want to get rid of slice spin for good, do what you think is most counterintuitive–aim to the right! Aiming right will encourage an inside-out swing. It also will force you to turn through the ball and, ultimately, help you get your stronger leg muscles more involved in your downswing. Be aware, however, that it’s going to take a few setup adjustments and some time on the practice tee.

1. Strengthen your left hand (right for southpaws) and make sure that the clubface is facing the target and your body is square or slightly right of the target (place a club on the ground and along your toes to check this).
2. Play the ball no farther back than your left heel.
3. Concentrate on making a full turn through the ball and remember to turn your hands over and release your arms.

With practice, you’ll soon see that aiming right reminds the body to make a full downswing turn and promotes the necessary inside-out swing path required to hit draws and hooks. Concentrate on a full turn of both the body and your forearms. With practice, that unwanted and frequent pull slice will disappear.

PGA professional Barry Goldstein instructs at Inverrary GC in Lauderhill, Fla.

Stop The Pop Undoubtedly, the most embarrassing tee shot in golf is the drive that pops straight up, barely clearing the tee box. The pop-up is an agonizing mis-hit most often caused by an excessive forward weight shift on the downswing and a club that approaches the ball on a very steep angle of attack. The steep descent de-lofts the clubface to such a degree that the topline of the club effectively becomes the leading edge. The result? Not only a humiliating pop-up, but one of the most hated marks in golf: a scuff on the crown of the clubhead. Yuck.

Eliminating the pop-up can be as simple as finetuning your setup. The key is to make sure your address position encourages a longer and bigger backswing arc, which will automatically shallow out your swing plane and reduce the steepness of your downswing. You’ll also find that the correct setup facilitates a solid backswing weight shift. In addition to the plane errors discussed above, a poor weight shift to the right side during the backswing can increase the likelihood of a pop-up.

The simplest adjustment you can make to your setup to keep the pop-up at bay is to open wide. A wide stance is needed because in order to create a bigger backswing arc, there must be room for it.

Try the following drill. Make abbreviated swings with your feet placed wider than shoulder width. Each swing should move from 2:00 to 8:00 (as if a large clock sits behind you). Concentrate on maintaining a higher position at the top of your swing (hands at 2:00) and a lower position at the finish (hands at 8:00). This will train your body to make a fuller backswing and shift your weight to your back foot on the backswing and to your forward foot on the downswing, instead of the other way around.

PGA professional Dean Hedstrom has taught the game of golf for over 30 years.

Go Topless If you tend to skull your fairway woods, it’s because you’re catching the ball on the upswing, often caused by trying to scoop or lift the ball up. To fix this problem, you have to understand that solid ballstriking is sometimes a game of opposites. To hit the ball higher with a fairway wood, you actually have to hit down–as opposed to up–on the ball.

To eliminate skulled shots with your fairway woods and hybrids, start by making sure that your ball position is no farther forward than the inside of your left heel. The ball should be positioned at the base of your swing arc so the club makes contact with the ball at the lowest point of your swing. If you’re going to error, you’re better off hitting the ball with a downward blow than an upward blow, so make sure the ball is never too far forward. Despite what you may have heard, moving the ball back in your stance can help you hit it higher by imparting more backspin to the ball. More backspin equals a higher trajectory and also works to negate damaging sidespin.

To practice, begin by putting a tee in the ground where you normally would hit your fairway wood. Instead of hitting from that tee, place another tee–this time with a ball–two inches behind the empty tee in front. As you hit a few shots, focus on grazing the empty tee after you make contact with the ball. This drill will help you train yourself to hit the ball on a descending or level plane, as opposed to an upward, ascending arc.

In addition, give this drill a try with your hybrid clubs, irons and wedges–all clubs that require a downward-to-level blow for consistent contact. With your hybrid clubs, separate the tees one to two inches apart, and with your irons and wedges, an inch apart will do just fine. After a few practice sessions, the topped shot will make its way out of your repertoire.

PGA professional Dean Hedstrom is the former director of instruction at the Ben Sutton Golf School (www.golfschool.com) near Tampa, Fla.

After watching thousands of swings over the past 30 years, I’ve pinpointed three mistakes that the majority of amateurs commit, each of which can diminish power and accuracy.

3 MistakesThe first is overswinging. Most amateurs overswing because they have a poor understanding of how power is created. More than 70 percent of your power comes from the ability to maintain the fully loaded wrist set established at the top deep into the downswing. Maintaining this position as long as you can then releasing the clubhead through impact accelerates the speed at which your clubhead moves through the hitting zone to four times faster than the speed of your hands.

3-mistakes-illo2.jpgThe second mistake I see the majority of amateurs make is overusing the legs. While it’s certainly advantageous to use your legs, wildly moving them through the ball will actually slow your clubhead speed and force you to make power-robbing compensations. Remember, the legs serve to support the swing and, as a result, instinctively control the clubface.

3-mistakes-illo3.jpgThe third amateur mistake is losing their leveraged triangle at the top. Many players allow their arms to get behind them at the top of the backswing or allow their right arm to fold or collapse. When you fold your right elbow excessively (greater than 90 degrees), you’ll force your arms behind your back. And once they’re behind your back, it’s nearly impossible to return them to a strong position at impact. You’ll not only lose distance, but also accuracy.

Senior instruction editor and PGA Master professional Joe Thiel is the director of World Wide Golf Schools, located in Olympia, Wash.

 

 

 

Shank StoppersYou’re enjoying a great day on the links, and you have an easy pitch to the last green where a par or even a bogey will give you your best score in a month. Easy pitch, easy swing, stick it close. But instead, some evil dragon maliciously guides your hosel toward your ball, and you shank it right of the greenside bunker. The shot so unnerves you that you proceed to shank a succession of shots around the perimeter of the green counterclockwise. Finally, in desperation, you putt the ball on to the green (thank God you have a center-shafted putter that only has a face and no hosel). Afterward, none of your friends want to discuss or even acknowledge that it happened. They merely look down at their shoes and avoid the subject of your 10 on the last hole. It seems that some folks feel shanking is contagious.
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What Is It?
Actually, shanking isn’t at all the insidious, terminal, career-ending disease that most golfers believe. It’s just a heeled shot with an iron. That’s right. If you examine your golf clubs, you’ll find that there are two areas of the clubhead that can be used to hit your golf ball. One of them is large and flat–the clubface. The other is small and round–the hosel–and connects the clubhead to the shaft.

If you hit the ball with the heel of any of your irons, the ball will carom off to the right (for you right-handed players) at an alarming angle, and always, it seems, toward trouble. It has nothing to do with the face being open. A shank can be hit with a closed, open or square clubface. This is an important point because if you mistakenly think this is a face angle problem, then you won’t be successful in solving it.

Why Does It Happen?
The main reason you’ll hit the ball on the heel of the club is that the heel of the club is the direct extension of your hands when they hold the grip. When you hold a tennis racquet, the sweet spot lies on a straight line coming out of your hand. It’s truly an extension of your hand. The handle of a baseball bat is a straight line that extends to the sweet spot in the head of the bat. Hit a tennis ball or baseball with the extension of your hands, and the sweet spot is automatically on the ball.

A golf club, on the other hand, isn’t as simple or as natural as that. The true extension of your hands down the shaft ends at the hosel, not the sweet spot. The sweet spot is about two inches away from the end of the shaft you’re holding in your hands. In fact, people who have a good sense of space with their hands often shank their iron shots because their sense of the clubhead is that it’s at the end of the shaft. It isn’t.

Test this yourself by putting a tee in the ground between you and the ball, about an inch or so from the near edge of the ball. Hit the tee with the heel of your club when you swing and you can’t shank. On the golf course, you have to pick out a piece of grass and make sure you swing the heel of your club at that spot instead of at the ball. After a while, you should have a better sense of which part of the club should hit the ball.


ShankShank Stoppers
First, get away from the ball at address. We’re all prisoners of our own perception and, even though you may not feel that you’re any closer to the ball, it’s my experience that most of my students who shank have begun crowding the ball noticeably at address.

Second, address the ball with your weight more toward your toes than your heels. Your body will always seek a balanced state when you put it in motion. That means that if you start on your heels, your body will attempt to move to a more balanced position toward the center of your feet. This, of course, will move your body and the heel of the club closer to the ball. Conversely, if you start with your weight favoring your toes, your body will again try to move to a balanced position during the swing that will be more toward the center of your feet. In this case, the heel of the club will be moving away from the ball to a position more inside the target line.

Third, look at a spot about two inches inside the ball position toward your feet and try to hit that spot with the center of the clubhead. Some students find this an excellent choice, while others are uncomfortable doing it. Try it regardless of how it feels to you. It can really work wonders on the golf course. Just pick out a piece of grass or any irregularity that you can focus on and look at it during the swing. It’s just a way of adjusting your perception so you can hit the ball more toward the toe side of the sweet spot.

Finally, try to hit all your shots on the toe of your club for the rest of the round. At this point in the game, you no longer have the luxury of trying to hit the ball on the center of the face. Remember, shanking isn’t so much a golf swing problem as it is a hand/eye coordination problem. For that reason, you must use hand/eye coordination solutions. Many people suffer needlessly from chronic shanking because they try to solve this problem with golf swing corrections. You must have a measure of control over your clubhead as it swings, much the same as a carpenter must control the hammer when driving a nail. Your hand/eye coordination system is what gives you that control. Learn to move the club with skill, not by chance.

After The Round
Building better skills on the practice tee after the round will go a long way toward removing the dreaded shank from your repertoire of shots. One of the most effective ways to do this is to use a toe board. A toe board is any block of wood that you place just outside the ball so that if you hit the ball on the heel of the club, the toe will hit the board. Hit as many balls as it takes to be able to make center-face contact with the ball and consequently not hit the board with the toe of your club.

So don’t fear the shank any longer. Fix it forever–first, on the golf course and then on the practice tee. Remember, just take better aim; it is, after all, your responsibility, not your golf swing’s.

A.J. Bonar, a PGA professional with three decades of teaching experience, is director of golf at AJ Golf Schools in San Diego, Calif.

Get Happy As an instructor, one of the most common swing flaws I see is the dreaded reverse pivot. This move wreaks havoc on any golfer’s ability to hit consistently good golf shots. One of the best ways to overcome the reverse pivot is to try a drill designed to make it impossible to hold your weight back on your downswing. I call it the baseball drill, or the Happy Gilmore, named after the title character in the film who steps into the golf ball the way a field goal kicker lunges toward the ball.

Begin with a short iron and assume your setup position. From your setup, lift your forward foot (the left foot for right-handers, right foot for southpaws) and position it next to your back foot. You’re now ready to swing. As you take the club away from the ball, lift your forward foot and allow it to return to its original position as soon as your club reaches just above waist-high on your backswing. This drill is training your body to shift your weight to your back foot at the beginning of your backswing and allows your body to shift its weight toward the front foot at the end of the backswing and on through the downswing. Also, it promotes a much healthier spin angle, both atop your swing and into the finish. Continue your swing as usual, holding your finish.

When you perform this drill correctly, your weight shifts toward your forward foot through the swing. At the finish position; the majority of your weight should reside over your front foot. Additionally, this move helps you create more lag and a more timely turn through the ball, helping you increase your swing speed and consistency. Practice this drill a few times without a ball until you get a natural feeling for stepping away and then into the ball.

Once confident with the weight shift, make a few swings while actually hitting a golf ball. Remember, as you step away from the ball, make sure you step your forward foot exactly where it was at address. You don’t want to overstep or understep. After a few swings, work your way through your short and mid-irons. The goal is to eventually ingrain a mental picture of allowing your weight to transition back on the backswing and then forward through the latter half of your backswing and downswing. Better yet, you’re training to eliminate the dreaded reverse pivot for good.

After a few practice sessions doing the Happy Gilmore, you can say goodbye to the reverse pivot and hello to more consistent shots and lower scores.

PGA professional John O’Leary III is the director of instruction at Arnold Palmer’s Bay Hill Club & Lodge (www.bayhill.com) in Orlando, Fla.

Triple Overlap One of the most common causes of bad pitches and chips is the dominant hand (right for righties) taking over  the swing. The result is typically scooped or thin contact that produces fat or sculled shots. To alleviate this tendency, learn to make your hands work together by experimenting with the triple-overlap grip. This technique effectively takes the dominant hand out of the swing, and promotes a descending blow, which is absolutely critical to creating crisp contact and consistent results.

Triple Overlap

When the hands aren’t working together properly in the golf swing, it’s usually the lower hand (right hand for right-handers) that attempts to make up for it by trying to lift the ball into the air. Rarely, if ever, does the lower hand produce a good result, especially when it comes to delicate chips and pitches around the green. Instead, the lower hand forces the clubhead too far ahead of the arms, en route to producing a skulled or flubbed shot. The key to hitting chips and pitches while completely avoiding the dreaded right hand-dominated flub or skulled shot is to grip the club in a way that limits the right hand’s involvement as much as possible. To do just that, I like to prescribe to my students what I call the triple-overlap grip.

To use this grip, first make sure you set up to the ball correctly. With a slightly narrow stance, position the ball two inches inside your front heel. Your top hand and club should form a straight line from your shoulder to the ball. Lean your upper body toward the target so you have at least 60 to 70 percent of your weight over your front leg. From this position, you’re ready to work in the triple overlap.

Take your normal full-swing grip. Then take your bottom hand (right for righties, left for lefties) and reposition it over your upper hand so that you overlap your pinkie, ring and middle fingers on your top hand. Back away from the ball and try some practice swings, making no more than knee-high backswings and knee-high followthroughs. Remember, this grip is intended for shots within 40 yards. Any farther away will require a standard grip.

Pay attention to how your hands (specifically your upper hand) lead the clubhead while using the triple-overlap grip. With your weight on your forward foot, you’ll be inclined to strike the ball with a downward blow, just as you should with all chips and pitches, and the triple overlap will help guard against the right hand dominating the downswing and flipping the club over too soon. After a few practice strokes, give it a shot. You’ll instantly notice how much more effectively both hands work together as a unit.

Plain and simple, the triple-overlap grip works great around the green and is equally effective when it’s time to make a few putts as well!

PGA professional John O’Leary III is the director of instruction at Arnold Palmer’s Bay Hill Club & Lodge (www.bayhill.com) in Orlando, Fla.

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