There is seaside golf, there is lakeside golf, and then there is Lake Superior golf. And that means a round at Superior National near the tiny winter ski village of Lutsen, Minnesota, on the largest of the Great Lakes’ wild and beguiling north coast.
It’s the only full-length course — two nines open now and another by fall 2017 — between Two Harbors, some 60 miles to the southwest down Highway 61, and Thunder Bay, Canada, about 100 miles northeast. The window to play Superior National is small — late April to mid-October — but summer weather makes up for it. Temperatures reach the high 70s to low 80s well into August, with lower humidity than downstate, and on a recent Golf Tips visit, skies were blessedly blue. Shorts-wearing golfers were out in force, soaking up the sun as they made their way through tumbling corridors of bright turf and dense North Woods on the lower reaches of the Sawtooth Mountain Range. They reveled in the vast lake views and chattering wildlife, from chipmunks to deer. They grabbed hot dogs and burgers at the turn between the Mountain Nine, which vaults toward the ski slopes visible from the first tee, and the newly renovated River Nine, which hugs the Poplar River for most of its run and traverses it on the sweet par 3 second hole — waterfall right, green beyond and pure Minnesota beauty all around. One couple came all the way from California to play the course with their Minnesotan friends. After all, golf is a rare bird in these parts — especially golf that is anything but Midwest flat, with elevation changes you’d find in Colorado or the Sierra — so the chance to enjoy its charms and challenges for a few hours between, say, hikes on the Superior Trail or a fishing excursion onto the lake itself — shouldn’t be ignored.
The River Nine’s second hole crosses the Poplar River
But wait, there’s more: A third nine, the Canyon, is in the final throes of a re-do; it also takes full advantage of the dramatic landscape and will give visiting golfers enough hole-to-hole variety to fill a multi-day stay at a nearby B&B or resort — Lutsen Resort is right across the road and the popular art-and-restaurant enclave of Grand Marais is 20 minutes away.
The course’s owners brought in Texas-based but Midwest-bred Jeffrey Brauer to oversee the River and Canyon nines’ $4.6 million renovation. Best known for his award-winning work at three other Northern Minnesota gems — The Wilderness at Fortune Bay in Tower and both Giants Ridge Courses in Biwabik, all a couple hours’ trek west via off-the-grid state highways — Brauer’s team widened fairways, increased green sizes, built five new tees on each nine and filled bunkers with bright white Ohio sand. It all adds up to a friendlier golf experience, but by no means a pushover. Tee shots to the proper side of landing areas are vital to keep a ball from bounding into dense foliage, and to leave a favorable approach angle. And once you’re on the green — many of them elevated or tucked into tight, forested corners — reading them is, again, akin to mountain golf, with putts almost invariably breaking to the lake. The upside? That huge, glacier-formed body, which contains 10 percent of the world’s fresh water, is always easy to locate.
In a part of Minnesota where outdoor recreation reigns for thousands of visitors each year, Superior National satisfies that golf itch most of us can’t escape no matter how deep into the woods we go. Its remoteness just makes it that much more attractive.
Greens fees for 18 holes with cart range from $45 to $69 depending on season and stay-play packages with a dozen nearby resorts, hotels and lodges are available.
Of the thousands of photos I’ve taken on golf courses, it’s one of my favorites. It was early morning and we were staging at the Whistling Straits clubhouse, getting ready to head out onto the Irish Course for a morning round on Pete Dye’s “other” design at Destination Kohler.
As we prepared our golf bags and rolled a few practice putts, I took a moment to survey the Straits Course as the sunrise fired up its long-shadow light show on the famed finishing hole. Everything was colored that wonderful, dew-glistening greenish-gold that can only be captured by camera for a few minutes on the best of mornings, framed by rich late-summer hues intensifying the surrounding trees, bunkers, native grasses and reflection off the stunning stone building that provides a tip o’ the cap to the courses of Ireland, which served as muse for the masterpiece this piece of ground has become.
This was Whistling Straits in a single camera shot. Stunning. Intimidating. Impeccably manicured. All with Lake Michigan on the horizon — a view so expansive that I more than once referred to the big blue as “the ocean” during our all-too-brief two-day visit to Wisconsin’s No. 1 golf destination.
We had played the Straits the previous day. Mother Nature had bestowed a late-afternoon performance upon us — equal parts drizzle, wind and cloud-infused blue skies culminating in a mix of glorious sunshine through giant raindrops as we walked the final fairway with the sun headed for the horizon. It remains one of my more memorable days on a golf course. Certainly not because of my golf game but because I’ve encountered few settings in my golf travels that rival the nexus of terrain, vistas and design found in these entertaining golf holes moving in and out and along this stretch of coastline.
It was a revelation — a surprising revelation.
No. 17 on Whistling Straits, Kohler, Wisconsin
In more than a decade of writing about some of the game’s greatest destinations across the United States and around the world, I’d never acquired the desire to put Whistling Straits on my personal bucket list.
And I still can’t explain why.
I had watched with golf fans everywhere as television showcased the course while Vijay Singh won the PGA Championship in 2004. And again the beauty was on full display in 2010 even though controversy clouded eventual winner Martin Kaymer’s victory over bunker-busted Dustin Johnson. And few major championship venues have ever looked better in high definition than Whistling Straits in 2015 as Jason Day set fire to the record books with his mind-boggling 20-under-par Wanamaker-winning performance.
I knew the 2007 U.S. Senior Open had been contested there, and that Kohler would be hosting its own “war by the shore” when the Ryder Cup arrives in 2020.
Video Bonus: Whistling Straits
Secret Golf’s Steve Elkington travels Wisconsin to play Whistling Straits and visit Herb Kohler. He also visits Sartori Cheese, Wisconsin-based manufacturer of award-winning specialty cheese.
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And I knew I was crazy. On a purely academic level, Whistling Straits has to be on every golfer’s must-play list, right? But, still, the course never resonated in my golfing soul. Maybe it was because I’m an ocean-golf snob. Or a links-golf snob. Sure, it was beautiful, but it always looked far too hard for the “average” golfer (despite how easy Day made it look for the pros).
I still can’t offer a good reason. Looking back, it makes no sense — it’s almost embarrassing that I had to be persuaded to visit Whistling Straits and The American Club. Because what I found was flat-out fun from the moment I stepped off the first tee until hitting my last iron at the flag, swinging and walking the final 150 yards through that refreshing final-shot shower.
In the five hours in between, I under-stood what I’d been missing. There were cliff-hanging 3-pars with names like O’Man, Shipwreck, Pop Up and Pinched Nerve — each a heroic one-shotter with the potential to make memories or destroy your scorecard. Plus, there’s the actual hole named Cliff Hanger — the par-4 13th where from the green you can almost see the fish in the Great Lake. And then there was the greenside bunker on the par-4 No. 6, which might be better described as an inside-the-green bunker because the putting sur-face literally wraps around this narrow, coffin-like pit that the caddies warn to avoid at all costs (I didn’t and paid the price with multiple swings and a big number, but it was some of the most fun I’ve had in a bunker in years).
More importantly, I was struck by how much of the golf course felt perfectly natural — especially for an architect who through the years has taken a bad rap for “manufacturing” golf holes rather than allowing the land to carry the design. All but one hole (and I’ll let you discover for yourself which one) at Whistling Straits feel as though they have always been there, just waiting to be discovered or uncovered. There’s no doubt it’s hair-raising, swashbuckling golf, but from my perspective the best courses in the world all have that living-on-the-edge mentality (both literally and figuratively).
The next morning on the Irish (a fine course in its own right), we’d find ourselves walking along with bell-ringing sheep and enjoying the spectacular morning, but I have to admit — every time I caught a glimpse of the Straits over the dunes that separate the two courses, I found myself wishing for one more round, one more chance at glory, one more opportunity to redeem my golf swing and write a sequel to this chapter of my own golf history. Whistling Straits is now on my must-return list. Until then, I look at that perfect photograph of the 18th at sunrise every day and wonder when I’ll get back — and why it took me so long to go in the first place.
BEYOND THE GOLF
The American Club at Destination Kohler exudes hospitality as well as any resort you’ll find the United States. The rooms are upscale country-cozy, and the bathrooms (complete with Kohler showers, tubs, fixtures, you name it) are pure luxury — making it one of those “places to stay” where you’ll have a true internal struggle between exploring the great outdoors or retreating to the (also) great indoors.
When it comes to dining, options are many but we love the friendly, cool-vibe Horse & Plow bar and grill for its comfort food with a twist, including burgers, fish ’n’ chips, pretzel bites and all sorts of other goodies (Beer & Cheese Soup, anyone?). Plus TVs, a fireplace and comfy lounge furniture make it a sweet spot to swap golf stories after a long day on the modern links.
And speaking of Whistling Straits, if you’re looking to play the resort’s signature course, better plan to book early — tee times are in high demand (and demanding a high price around $500 when you include caddie fee and tip). Check out the resort’s Golf Escape stay-play packages to save a few bucks and experience golf at Blackwolf Run as part of your next golf getaway.
Darin Bunch is travel editor for Golf News Net and co-host of the “Talking GolfGetaways” podcast available at www.GolfNewsNet.com and on the iTunes, audioBoom and Stitcher apps for mobile devices.
Michigan’s reputation as one of the top golf destinations in the country continues strong in 2017 with multiple new golf course developments opening for the first time in years and existing destinations making significant investments in their products and packages for golfers nationwide.
“With our championship courses and top notch destinations, Michigan is consistently named among the best places in the country for golf,” said Dave Lorenz, Vice President of Travel Michigan, part of the Michigan Economic Development Corporation. “As courses and destinations within the industry continue to make new investments, Michigan continues to be a destination of choice that offers world-class golf products and experiences that travelers come to expect.”
Leading the way is a truly unique and one of a kind 18-hole reversible golf course designed by Tom Doak of Renaissance Golf Design, which opens to the public at Forest Dunes in Roscommon this spring, after a limited launch in 2016. The Loop is an innovative, walking-only experience with two different layouts that alternate directions on a daily basis so golfers can have a distinct experience.
A second Renaissance Golf Design project opening this spring is the highly-anticipated Stoatin Brae course, which is the sixth golf course for Augusta’s Gull Lake View Golf Club and Resort. As part of Southwest Michigan’s largest and oldest golf destination, Stoatin Brae is a dramatic departure from Gull Lake’s other five courses. Third-generation owner Jon Scott worked with Renaissance Golf Design architects to create a championship-caliber, 18-hole, par-71 golf course that stretches more than 6,800 yards.
The third course at Island Resort & Casino in Escanaba will open this fall. Sage Run was designed by Michigan-based architect Paul Albanese and features mostly hardwoods with golf holes that run up and around a geographical formation known as a drumlin, as well as a rugged rolling terrain that is set off by earth tones, browns and tans. Albanese makes some comparisons to Royal County Down, a Northern Ireland golf club that is rated among the finest in the world.
Finally, Arcadia Bluffs, one of the premier courses in the country located on the shores of Lake Michigan near Frankfurt, has announced it will also develop a new golf course. Construction of the South Course at Arcadia Bluffs is scheduled to begin this spring, with completion anticipated for summer 2018. The 310-acre site is located approximately 1.5 miles South of Arcadia Bluffs, directly off of M-22.
In addition to these new courses, new programs and packages have been added to attract golf travelers to some of Michigan’s most popular destinations.
America’s Summer Golf Capital, featuring some of the leading resort destinations in Northern Michigan, is promoting the region to draw golfers from as far away as Texas. Working with the Gaylord Golf Mecca, and in conjunction with American Airlines, a new direct inbound and outbound flight service between Dallas/Fort Worth and Traverse City Cherry Capital Airport will begin June 2.
And to help golfers of all levels improve their scoring game, the Grand Traverse Resort and Spa will host 15 clinics and instructional programs taught through The Dave Pelz Short Game School. Owned by renowned golf instructor Dave Pelz, the school’s one-day clinics will be held June 28 and the two- and three-day instruction programs start Aug. 20.
Pelz, a former NASA scientist whose celebrated work with Phil Mickelson and many other top professionals has helped result in multiple major championships, founded his schools in the late 1980s and structured the program to meet the needs of all handicap levels, emphasizing individual attention to each student. Every Pelz school includes an analysis of each student’s game, classroom theory sessions and outdoor execution sessions. For more information on the Pelz school, clinic schedules and how to enroll, visit www.pelzgolf.com.
The Michigan Economic Development Corporation is the state’s marketing arm and lead advocate for business development, job awareness and community and talent development with the focus on growing Michigan’s economy. For more information on the MEDC and our initiatives, visit www.MichiganBusiness.org. For Pure Michigan tourism information, your trip begins at www.michigan.org.
Being at the far western edge of the Eastern Time Zone has its benefits, particularly if the calendar reads summer and there’s a 3-wood in your hand. That’s just one reason the “pinkie” part of Northern Michigan, with the lovely town of Traverse City at its heart, rocks as a golf destination from May into early October.
During the high season of late June well into August, a round with a view of that big lake to the west and north, or a rolling expanse of deep green woods, or a rich cherry orchard, can last well past 9 p.m., followed by a hearty Upper Midwest meal washed down some damned good local craft beer and fine lodging seasoned to taste. And the golf is simply great: Classic forest-parkland by Robert Trent Jones Jr., rumpled Midwest links from Arthur Hills, modern masterwork from Jack Nicklaus and, a bit further afield, all-around excellence from the likes of Tom Weiskopf and Traverse City (or “TC” to locals) resident Tom Doak.
Since Michigan claims to offer the greatest concentration of public courses of any state in America, we could spend a lifetime there playing them all, no doubt meeting some unfailingly friendly folks along the way. But for now we’ve found a home up north — several homes, rather, in the form of Petoskey-area resorts such as Boyne Highlands and Bay Harbor (also owned by Boyne, whose third property in the area, Boyne Mountain, rounds out an impressive triumvirate) and Grand Traverse Resort closer to TC. Let’s head out.
No. 7 at Bay Harbor’s Links Nine.
BAY HARBOR
Tucked at the south end of Little Traverse Bay about 20 minutes up Highway 31 from the Rockwellian vacation hamlet of Charlevoix, the Inn at Bay Harbor has the look and feel of a classic 1920s hotel, though it opened in 1998. Now part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, it’s the centerpiece of a sprawling residential-meets-recreation development, with six stories of exquisite rooms in the main inn as well as several cottages next door. Watching a take-its-time summer sunset over the bay from a suite’s veranda, with the pool below and the lake’s ancient glacial waters just beyond, puts you in the perfect mindset to tackle Bay Harbor Golf Club’s three Hills nines the next morning after a buffet breakfast in the movie-set-like Sagamore Room. Though the Preserve nine has its adherents, the Links and Quarry nines are the most requested 18-hole combo. Hill brought his most creative and sometimes whimsical tendencies to bear on both sides. The Links is just that, open and wide for the most part, large greens with lots of movement, tumbling along sandy cliffs about a mile west of the hotel. The opening trio are truly stunning, especially No. 3, whose green opens up if you take the pro line over a ravine to the left, but No. 7 is a permanent memory bank par 5 that plays slightly uphill to a cliffhanging green with nothing but sky and big water beyond. The Quarry is right there visually, too, starting off through a forested corridor before breaking loose into a former, yes, quarry, with pretty second homes sitting above the sheer carve-outs but never interfering with the matter at hand, which is survival. Forced carries over water and wetland are legion, twists and turns are the rule and at a couple holes — the epic par-5 5th, for instance — one needs every ounce of his or her strategic juice. The final pair play right into and along the lapping shore of Lake Michigan, with the 9th green ensconced on three sides in a ring of pine and fir. It’s pitch-perfect.
The Heather Course at Boyne Highlands. Photo by Marjorie Williams
BOYNE HIGHLANDS
It’s a scant 20 minutes from Bay Harbor to this all-season resort community that dates to the 1960s. In the summer months, ski hills yield to hiking and biking trails and ziplining rigs. In a convention center next to the alpine-styled main lodge, a local group offers dinner theater several nights a week. There are kids everywhere, and they’re having a ball, as are the army of golfers who fill four courses, work on their games at the impressive Boyne Golf Academy (the legendary Jim Flick was the head teacher here for decades and mentored Brian O’Neill, the current PGA Director of Instruction), eat at the eight restaurants (again, they excel at breakfast buffet in the Main Dining Room, and the burgers at Slopeside Lounge and Seminole Lounge are outstanding) and stay in the lodge, rental townhouses, cottages or homes. It’s an all-encompassing, stay-for-a-week-or-more type of place, which is why so many golf-crazy Michiganders from the southern part of the state flock there when the weather warms — yet stays far cooler and less muggy than at home thanks to lake breezes. The main challenge is choosing which course to play if you can’t play them all. For fans of classic East Coast design, the Donald Ross Memorial Course — consisting of 18 replica holes that mirror the master’s originals, right down to green size and elevation change — may be the winner. Some consider the Arthur Hills the toughest of the bunch, and the most visually pleasing, while the Moor is a bit tighter and demanding some local knowledge. But for a pure, all-star northern Michigan experience, it’s tough to beat the resort’s first course, The Heather, a Robert Trent Jones Sr. design that opened in 1966. Just a couple holes into the front nine and you’ll feel as if you’re in the forest primeval, surrounded by thick woods, playing over and around natural ponds and wetlands to push-up greens ringed in old-school bunkers. The back nine heads back into civilization somewhat, but retains that soothing parkland feel. Play it early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the shadows are long and the wildlife is active, and it’s hard not to fall in love.
The Bear at Grand Traverse Resort
GRAND TRAVERSE RESORT
If you’re looking for a dash of urban comfort among the TC region’s rural vibe just 10 minutes from the fine Cherry Capital Airport, the Grand Traverse Resort is where to set up shop, literally. Not only is the resort’s impressive, gleaming tower a favorite among golf gangs, honeymooners, families, and meeting groups large and small — with stellar, well-outfitted guest rooms and suites and the first tees of three courses just a couple 9-irons away — it’s also home to a mall with plenty of credit card-burning options (we’re partial to the candy and ice cream store). On the top floor is Aerie, a high-end restaurant offering floor-to-ceiling views of Grand Traverse Bay and those lingering Michigan sunsets; just off the lobby are Jack’s Sports Bar and the Sweetwater American Bistro, and across the parking lot at the clubhouse is the Grille, a fine 19th hole serving all-out breakfasts, burgers and sandwiches that’ll get you through your 18-hole battles with plenty of fuel to spare. So where to play? In the same vein as Boyne Highlands, Grand Traverse offers a classic-style tight track with small greens (the original Spruce Run, which hosted the Michigan Open for several years) and a more player-friendly, open routing (Gary Player’s Wolverine, which took over that same tournament a few years later). Then there’s The Bear, whose hole-to-hole beauty — woods, lakes, meadows and such — belies a beastly relentlessness served with smile, as in Jack Nicklaus’s knowing grin. He pulls out all the design stops here and leans heavily on his Pete Dye influences, with fall-off fairways, serious bunkering and multi-tiered greens. You’ve gotta bust it off the tee on par 5s like No. 3, without finding the murderer’s row of bunkers up the left side, if you want a shot at getting home in two by clearing a creek guarding the green. The next hole is as pretty a par 3 as you’ll find, but again, it’s all carry, as is the second shot on No. 5, one of those holes that ratches up the risk the more club you hit from the tee. The Bear’s claws virtually never pull back through the round, even at a short, downhill par 4 like No. 12. And the epic finisher is fit for a U.S. Open, demanding a big drive and water-clearing approach with only the slightest bail to the left. In other words, Jack asks you to maintain his brand of patience and smarts to make it through with minimal scars. Good thing a nice, cold local IPA can be found on tap inside, just in case. The call here is to play it once, take your lumps and take notes, then go at it again with a solid game plan.
In fact, any trip to this part of Michigan amounts to a solid plan, and there are several other multi-course resorts to throw into the mix — Garland, Treetops, Shanty Creek and Forest Dunes, where The Loop, Tom Doak’s latest “reversible” 18-hole creation, debuted in June to augment Tom Weiskopf’s award-winning layout. Add in other outdoor pursuits like boating, hiking, fishing for trout inland or bigger breeds in Lake Michigan, plus some wine tasting (TC is renowned for its varietals, and you must try the local cherry wine), spa-ing and sightseeing to nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes or, further north, Mackinac Island, and you’re set for one sweet far-north summertime soiree. Just don’t hurry sundown.
The three-state treat of Great Lakes golf—in Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin—is among the richest and most diverse in America. Believe it or not.
OK, the season is short. So what? That hasn’t kept majors like the PGA Championship away, or the Ryder Cup, either. And they’re coming back, soon.
Here’s a primer not only on where to play, but what do to.
The Irish Course at Whistling Straits
Northern Michigan
Mackinac Island
There’s much more to this quaint island than just the world’s best fudge. Since no cars are allowed on the island, you must arrive by ferry or via the 8,614-foot Mackinac Bridge–North America’s longest suspension bridge physically connects Michigan’s Upper and Lower Peninsulas. You can get around the island only by foot, horse carriage or bicycle. Then there’s the charming, 385-room Grand Hotel with the world’s longest front porch. The 120-year-old, elegant hotel was the site of the 1979 movie, Somewhere in Time. Be sure to catch the island’s state park, honored by National Geographic as one of America’s 10 finest. For more info, visit www.mackinac.com.
Sleeping Bear Dunes Natural Lakeshore
Located in northwestern Lower Michigan, along the shores of Lake Michigan, it’s roughly 25 miles from bustling Traverse City. Disney’s FamilyFun magazine calls it the “Number One Midwest nature escape for families,” and rightly so, as this 70,000-acre getaway features 35 miles of wide, sandy beaches directly on Lake Michigan, massive sand dunes perched atop towering headlands and pristine inland lakes and streams. There are plenty of water sports, hiking and outdoor activities for people of all ages to participate in.
Frankenmuth
Roughly an hour northwest of metro Detroit on I-75, this Bavarian-themed town has a zoo, top-rated golf course and a main street packed with hotels, gift shops and large restaurants specializing in the world’s best fried chicken. The most-famous stop on South Main St. is the all-encompassing Zehnder’s of Frankenmuth, home to Splash Village Hotel & Waterpark, the 6,813-yard Fortress Golf Course and the town’s most-renowned eatery. For more info, visit www.frankenmuth.org.
Minnesota
Brainerd Golf Trail
Roughly two-and-a-half hours north of Minneapolis there are 20-plus courses on 17 sites, amounting to more than 300 holes of golf, in the scenic Brainerd area. There’s also plenty of lodging in town, ranging from upscale lake resorts to modern hotels, which is why it’s ranked as the state’s top stay-and-play golf destination. Courses here share a blend of lakes and woods–without the high green fees you might find in comparable golf destinations in other parts of the world. For more info, visit www.brainerdgolftrail.com.
Michigan’s Treetops Resort
Paul Bunyan Tributes
Seen that truck commercial on TV, where it drives up to a diner bearing a large (perhaps life-size) statue of Paul Bunyan? That’s in Brainerd Lakes, which claims ownership of the mythical lumberjack. Thus, tributes to him can be found all over town. The most famous Bunyan statue is located at Paul Bunyan Land at This Old Farm Pioneer Village, just east of Brainerd on Highway 18. It’s surrounded by the entire collection of rides from the former Paul Bunyan Amusement Center, which closed in 2003. The newest Paul sits at the Brainerd Lakes Area Welcome Center, where visitors often climb on his lap for photos. Many other Bunyan statues are around, including a talking version, as are his flashlight (at Brainerd’s water tower) and wooden axe (outside Crosslake’s Ace Hardware).
Walleye Pike
No trip to Minnesota is complete without tasting the official state fish, walleye pike. Many restaurants serve it, in one preparation form or another. TJ’s Supper Club in Deerwood serves it deep-fried, with au gratin potatoes on the side. Right on a lake, the restaurant also dishes up a fantastic Sunday brunch that includes pike.
U.S. Hockey Hall Of Fame
Three hours north of Minneapolis, in Eveleth, Minn., this hockey museum celebrates American hockey by honoring and recognizing outstanding hockey contributors and capturing the true spirit and excitement of hockey. Inductees include many famous U.S.-born stars and members of the 1980 U.S. Olympic hockey team.
The Links Course at Bay Harbor in Michigan
Wisconsin
American Club
Once a dormitory for Kohler’s immigrant employees, this AAA Five-Diamond resort hotel in Kohler–90 minutes from Milwaukee–features unique, luxurious decor that creates a singular experience room by room. Because bath-furnishing mogul Herb Kohler owns the resort, no two bathrooms in the hotel are the same. The Horse & Plow restaurant/sports bar is second-to-none for casual fare. Next door, Kohler Waters Spa offers nourishing treatments, massages and all-day experiences. Stroll through the streets of Kohler for a morning walk.
Green Bay Packers Hall Of Fame
The 25,000-square foot facility, located inside Green Bay’s Lambeau Field Atrium, lets visitors relive the most exciting moments in Packers and NFL history. You can see, touch and feel 80-plus years of football through 80 exhibits, including three Super Bowl trophies and a re-creation of Vince Lombardi’s office. Also, a children’s interactive area lets little fans experience what it’s like to play for their favorite NFL team, which in this area better be the Packers. For more info, visit www.packers.com.
The American Club
The area’s only AAA Five-Diamond resort hotel, The American Club in Kohler, features a first-class spa, fitness center and two spectacular golf courses.
Boyne Highlands Resort
Offers three top-notch golf courses as well as comfortable accommodations. The Ross Memorial is an absolute must.
Garland Resort
The only AAA Four-Diamond property in northern Michigan, the impressive main lodge is the largest of its kind east of the Mississippi River.
Inn At Bay Harbor
An impressive hotel and 27 holes of outstanding golf along Little Traverse Bay are only the beginning at Bay Harbor.
Grand Traverse Resort And Spa
Over 400 hotel rooms and 200 condos are available, as well as a beach club, health club and courses designed by Jack Nicklaus and the great Gary Player.
5 Hidden Gems
Shanty Creek
Features Tom Weiskopf’s first design in Michigan, Cedar River, as well as the Arnold Palmer-designed Legend Course. Consistently rated one of the state’s best.
Black Forest Golf Club
Tom Doak’s Black Forest is a tough but enjoyable test of golf that demands your entire game be on the ball.
Black Lake Golf Club
Built on land owned by the UAW Family Education Center, Black Lake’s Rees Jones-designed Championship Course runs across 300 acres of mature forests and wetlands.
Forest Dunes Golf Club
Designed by Tom Weiskopf, this links-style track features natural sand dunes, native fescue and plenty of great golf.
Grand Geneva Resort
Home of The Brute, one of the toughest and most challenging tests of golf in the Midwest. Features close to 70 sand bunkers and enormous, undulating greens.
Miscellaneous Midwest
Spring, Summer And Fall
Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin are cold-weather states, and as a result, feature relatively short golf seasons. Plan your trip for sometime between late April and early October, and you’ll have a ball.
In Vino Veritas
Believe it or not, Michigan is a great state for wine, as its soil provides nearly ideal growing conditions for grapes. Be sure to sample the local labels during your travels, especially in combination with some musky.
Gone Fishin’
Lake trout, brown trout, walleye, salmon, steelhead and bass are all fair game in the Great Lakes as well as Michigan’s 11,000 inland lakes and streams. Charter boats and multiday fishing adventures are easily found throughout the state.
Taste The Goodness
Minnesota travelers would do well to sample some of the homegrown fruits and vegetables, honey, maple syrup, cheese and specialty meats, including bison and emu. Check out the Minnesota Grown Directory to locate farmers’ markets in the state.
Cheese!
Wisconsin produces more than 35 percent of all cheese made in the United States, much of which comes from family-owned and -operated factories. Be sure to take a tour and see how some of these award-winning varieties are made.
TOP TEN PLACES TO PLAY
Madden’s On Gull Lake, Brainerd
A classic family-style resort. www.maddens.com
Minneapolis Golf Club, Minneapolis
A private club that you can play as a possible member. www.minneapolisgolfclub.com
The Quarry At Giant’s Ridge, Biwabik
Features wetlands, forests and a former sand quarry. www.giantsridge.com
Rush Creek Golf Club, Maple Grove
The Twin Cities’ finest. www.rushcreek.com
Treetops Resort, Treetops Village
Five distinctly different layouts crafted by RTJ, Sr. www.treetops.com
The Heather At Boyne Highlands, Harbor Springs
This RTJ course is fantastic. www.boyne.com
Bay Harbor Golf Club, Bay Harbor
Two of the three nines embrace Lake Michigan. www.boyne.com
The Bear At Grand Traverse Resort, Acme
A links-style course that can be extremely tough. www.grandtraverseresort.com
Arcadia Bluffs Golf Course, Arcadia
The Midwest’s Pebble Beach. www.arcadiabluffs.com
Blackwolf Run, Kohler
Has hosted the Women’s Open and the World Championship of Golf. www.destinationkohler.com
Most golfers are slowly becoming aware of what is now one of America’s finest golfing venues: the Great Lakes, particularly Michigan and Wisconsin. In recent years, some of the most celebrated new courses in America opened in this region. The varied topography — everything from sand dunes to abandoned stone quarries combined with perfect soils and abundant water — have made the area an ideal place for building exciting golf courses.
The result is a collection of high-end resort courses, the caliber of which can compete with any golf destination in America. You’ve probably heard of Michigan’s Bay Harbor and of Wisconsin’s Whistling Straits, but there really is a whole lot more.
Northern Michigan has long been the summer-time playground of the rich the famous. Ernest Hemingway, Walter Hagen, Tom Watson and former Augusta National and Masters Chairman Hord Hardin loved to visit the quaint towns of Petoskey, Harbor Springs, Boyne City, Charlevoix and Traverse City. Needless to say, golf courses were developed to accommodate them.
But here golf is not just for the wealthy. Michigan is known for having the most public golf courses per capita of any state and the tradition of public play goes deep. As a result, almost all of northern Michigan and Wisconsin resort courses are open for public play and at rates much below those in other resort areas.
As a result, golfers from all over the eastern seaboard and the Midwest now come to Michigan and Wisconsin to play summer golf. From April through October, these courses are busy from early until late–very late, as in mid-summer the sun does not set until after 10 p.m.
The list of golf resorts is impressive: Bay Harbor Golf Club, Boyne USA, Garland, Treetops, Shanty Creek and Grand Traverse Resort all boast multiple golf courses, for every golfing level.
And vacationers don’t just come for golf, although there is plenty of it. They come to enjoy the shores of the Great Lakes (much of both states are surrounded by water), or to fish in the little lakes and streams, or to climb the sand dunes, or hike through the woods, or bike one of the state’s great trails.
Another big lure for northern Michigan is Mackinac Island, one of America’s most popular summer destinations. Once you arrive by ferry you go back to a time to when people traveled only by horse and bicycle (no motorized vehicles are allowed). It is a charming and magical. No fear, there is golf on Mackinac, as well.
All of this is why Michigan and Wisconsin are perfect for all types of golfers: the play-all-day golfing groups, golfing couples who want fine dining and superb accommodations and golfing families who want something to entertain everyone.
While midsummer is high season for Midwest golf, spring and fall are also excellent times to hit the links. Prices are even more favorable and the many hues of fall foliage on the hardwood trees are simply fabulous to behold.
Of course, there is wildlife, too. You rarely play a round without encountering nesting eagles, swift white-tailed deer, flocks of turkeys, rambunctious red-tailed squirrels and even a crafty fox or two. These courses have them all.
What To Bring & When To Go
What To Bring
Proper gear is crucial to enjoying a golf vacation, and in the Great Lakes region, this is particularly true. Known for brisk autumns and hot summers, the area requires golfers to keep warm or cool depending on the season.
When it comes to golf balls, the thing to remember when traveling to the Great Lakes area is to bring plenty of them. And since you’ll probably need more than a few pellets to make it through your trip, it’s best to choose a model that goes far, feels good and is reasonably priced.
When To Go
The best time to visit the Great Lakes region is from May 15 to September 15, although play may begin in mid-April and extend through mid-October. The best weather can be found in June through August, although September offers some of the prettiest golf
found anywhere.
How To Get There
There are many routes to arrive in the Summer Golf Capital. The part of Michigan featured in this story is in the northern Lower Peninsula, located approximately 3.5 hours driving time north of Detroit. The area is served by several airlines, each of which offers flights into the hub of Traverse City:
Kohler is located two and a half hours north of Chicago’s O’Hare Airport and one hour north of Milwaukee. It’s also accessible from the Madison and Green Bay airports. Grand Geneva Resort is less than a 90-minute drive from Chicago and an hour’s drive from Milwaukee. Private planes can fly into Traverse City, Gaylord, Harbor Springs, Pellston and Sheboygan County (Kohler), and into the following resorts: Boyne Mountain, Garland and Grand Geneva Resort.
The dynamic course is built on the bluffs above the shore of Lake Michigan and sits on approximately 245 windswept acres of lakefront property. The course drops 225 feet from its highest point down to the bluff, 180 feet above sea level,
and has 3,100 feet of Lake Michigan shore frontage.
Par 72, 7300 yards
Bay Harbor, MI
Bay Harbor’s Links nine flows along the bluffs above Little Traverse Bay. The Quarry nine cuts through sand dunes and onto the floor of a giant rock quarry carved out by a cement company that once occupied the site. The Preserve nine runs through much water and a hardwood forest. Bay Harbor is an awesome golf experience. (Arthur Hills) www.bayharborgolf.com
(800) GO-BOYNE
Black Forest Golf Club
Mancelona, MI
Anyone lucky enough to have seen or played Tom Doak’s magnificent design of the Pacific Dunes Course in Bandon, Ore., will certainly want to play Black Forest. Black Forest is a tour de force through rolling land and hills covered wi
th a thick variety of pine and other hardwood trees. The greens here will get your attention with some of the most severe undulations this side of the Masters. The shaggy, deep white bunkers are works of art.
Par 73, 7044 yards (Tom Doak)
The Black Lake Golf Club is owned and operated by the United Auto Workers (UAW) at its Black Lake retreat near Onaway. It has won a number of awards, and many critics agree that this course is one of the best designs Rees Jones has created.
Par 72, 7046 yards (74.3/140) (Rees Jones)
Designed by Tom Weiskopf, Forest Dunes is a treat for any golf purist. Forest Dunes is reminiscent of Pine Valley or Weiskopf’s Arizona courses, with natural sand dunes highlighted by native grasses, flora and century-old jack pines. The latest addition is Tom Doak’s unique reversible course.
Par 72, 7104 yards (Tom Wesikopf)
Shanty Creek Resort–Cedar River Golf Club
Bellaire, MI
Tom Weiskopf’s first design in Michigan. Named to the “Top 10 You Can Play” list in 2000, Cedar River features wide landing areas, huge bunkers and large approachable greens.
Par 72, 6989 yards (73.6/144) (Tom Weiskopf)
Shanty Creek Resort–The Legend Course
Bellaire, MI
The Legend layout is consistently rated one of the state’s most popular courses. The Legend is cut through the rolling hills of Northern Michigan and offers stunning views of Lake Bellaire.
(Arnold Palmer)
Treetops Resort–Jones Masterpiece
Treetops Village, MI
The Masterpiece course features dramatic elevation changes, a wide diversity of design and breathtaking views of the Pigeon River Valley. The view from the par-3 sixth hole inspired architect Robert Trent Jones, Sr. to coin the name “Treetops.”
Par 72, 7060 yards (75.5/144) (Robert Trent Jones, Sr.)
The Irish Course continues the same theme as the Straits Course, but inland. Large greens, wide fairways, and four meandering streams, along with the rugged waste and fescue areas will give golfers of all levels a challenge.
Par 72, 7201 yards (75.6/146) (Pete Dye)
Kohler Resort offers four great courses, but this is the best. The Straits Course was sculpted by Pete Dye to give golfers a rendition of Ireland and Scotland along two miles of Lake Michigan shoreline. With lake views on most of the holes, tough greens, waste areas, pot bunkers and rugged fescue areas, the Straits is one of the most spectacular courses found anywhere (host to the 2004 PGA Championship. Walking only, caddies required (most are from Ireland!).
Par 72, 7362 yards (76.7/151) (Pete Dye)
The River Course is a commanding layout that offers a dynamic golf challenge with sweeping panoramic views of the Sheboygan River valley. A glacier carved the original site, sculpting river valleys with deep ravines, meadow plains, gentle rolling hills and abundant lakes. Its sister course, Meadow Valleys, is also well worth playing.
Par 72, 6991 yards (74.4/148) (Pete Dye)
It takes guts to build a new golf course just a few miles down the road from Whistling Straits, but Jack Nicklaus didn’t hesitate. The fact that The Bull is a Nicklaus Signature Course–the only one in Wisconsin–speaks volumes about its quality. The owners basically gave Nicklaus a 418-acre expanse and said, “You find the best course on it.”
Par 72, 7332 yards (76.4/146) (Jack Nicklaus)
Boyne Highlands Resort–The Donald Ross Memorial
Boyne, MI
The Ross is a collection of famous Ross holes from clubs around the country. Do not look at these holes as replicas, but rather a clever rendition of Ross holes complete with a good routing. A fun golf experience.
Par 72, 6814 yards (75.5/136)
The Heather is a classic design that pioneered the start of the northern Michigan golf boom in the 1970s. It remains one of the most impressive courses in the Midwest.
Par 72, 6890 yards (74.0/136) (Robert Trent Jones, Sr.)
The massive, heavily wooded Hills course is named after its designer Arthur Hills. The routing combines waste areas, hardwoods and strong elevation changes. The 13th tee offers a 25-mile view.
Par 73, 7312 yards (76.4/144) (Arthur Hills)
It’s water, water everywhere on Swampfire. Golfers will find wet hazards on 16 holes. The fun starts on No. 2, a 553-yard par-5 with water dangerously lurking along the entire left side to the green.
Par 72, 6854 yards (73.9/138) (Ron Otto)
Must-Plays (cont.)
Grand Traverse Resort–The Bear
Traverse City, MI
One of Jack Nicklaus’ early designs, The Bear is almost universally regarded as the toughest course in the state. This links-style course features Scottish terraced fairways, tiered greens, deep grassy roughs, moguls, mounds and deep pot bunkers.
Par 72, 7065 yards (76.8/146) (Jack Nicklaus)
Grand Traverse Resort–Wolverine
Traverse City, MI
Water and wetlands on the front and highland terrain with forests on the back mark this beautiful and challenging course.
Par 72, 7038 yards (73.9/144) (Gary Player)(800) 236-1577 www.grandtraverseresort.com
Treetops Resort–Fazio Premier
Treetops Village, MI
The Fazio Premier blends in perfectly with the undulating terrain in northern Michigan. The only Tom Fazio-designed course in Michigan, it has been described as user-friendly because many of its wide fairways feed the ball back to the center. It’s also considered to be one of the best collections of short par-4s on one course anywhere.
Par 72, 6832 yards (73.6/136) (Tom Fazio)
Treetops Resort–Smith Signature
Treetops Village, MI
Designed by the teaching guru Rick Smith (who is the managing partner at Treetops), this course combines northern Michigan terrain with some unique design features from Ireland. The stunning layout travels up and down, and its elevated greens offer views of up to 30 miles.
Par 72, 6653 yards (72.8/140) (Rick Smith)
Although Tradition is the most recent addition to the Treetops rota of courses, its gently rolling layout instills the sense it’s been there for decades. Designed by the teaching guru Rick Smith (who is the managing partner at Treetops), this course combines northern Michigan terrain with some unique design features from Ireland. The stunning layout travels up and down, and its elevated greens offer views of up to 30 miles.
Par 72, 6467 yards (70.3/122) (Rick Smith)
The Inn at Bay Harbor
On the Lake Michigan shoreline, west of Petoskey, the Inn at Bay Harbor, A Renaissance Golf Resort is a luxurious property now affiliated with Marriott’s luxury division. The Victorian-style condominium hotel borrows its elegant style from San Diego’s Hotel Del Coronado. It has 152 units, two restaurants and a lovely spa. Guests may play any of Boyne USA’s 153 holes in the area. Rates range from $129 to $1,300.
(800) GO-BOYNE www.innatbayharbor.com
The Lodge at Cedar River
The Lodge at Cedar River at Shanty Creek Resort features 84 elegant suites. Picture windows on every floor of the four-story building giving clear views of the18th green of the Cedar River course. The golf shop and Weiskopf’s Grill are conveniently located in the lower level of the Lodge. Rates range from $90 to $270.
(800) 678-4111 www.shantycreek.com
Garland Resort
Garland resort near Lewiston is the only AAA Four-Diamond property in northern Michigan. The impressive main lodge is the largest log lodge east of the Mississippi River. Complementing the beautiful lodge is a collection of charming cabins and golf villas. Four golf courses are just outside your door.
(877) 4-GARLAND www.garlandusa.com
Boyne Highlands
Variety is the key here. The main lodge has the feel of an old English manor house and is located across from the Heather golf course. On a slightly more intimate scale, the Bartley House provides a traditional setting of fieldstone and wood accents. Pleasantly secluded, the Bartley House is the home of the Midwest’s largest hot tub. There are also the Donald Ross golf villas. Rates range from $67 to $244.
(800) GO-BOYNE www.boyne.com
Homestead Resort
Located on the Leelanau peninsula, The Homestead calls itself “America’s Freshwater Resort.” It is located right on Lake Michigan, next to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The property has several lodges, as well as condos and houses for rent. The Inn operates as a luxurious bed and breakfast, while the Stony Brook Lodge is located right next to the Dave Pelz Golf School. There is also is a clever nine-hole par-3 course on the property. Just eight miles away is King’s Challenge, a lovely design by Arnold Palmer. Rates range from $86 to $272.
(231) 334-5100 www.thehomesteadresort.com
Grand Traverse Resort
The largest resort in northern Michigan, Grand Traverse boasts 238 hotel rooms, another 186 rooms in its 17-story glass tower and 236 condominiums. It has a beach club, shops, a large health club and a spa. It is home to the Jim McLean Golf Academy and three golf courses. Rates begin at $139 per night.
(800) 236-1577 www.grandtraverseresort.com
Treetops Resort
The renovated lodge features an expanded lobby with a fireplace and cozy furniture, a gathering space with a large television and an area for children. There are also a number of houses and condo available for rental. There are two golf courses on the main site, and three others just a few miles away at Treetops North where the Rick Smith Golf Academy is also located. Rates for lodge rooms begin at $129.
(888) TREETOPS www.treetops.com
Where To Stay:
Wisconsin
The American Club
The historic American Club, in the village of Kohler, is the Midwest’s only AAA Five-Diamond resort hotel. One fun thing is that all of the bathrooms are furnished with the latest in Kohler fixtures. The hotel is part of a much larger complex. There is great spa (Kohler is in the plumbing business, remember) fitness center, several restaurants and, of course, the famous Kohler golf courses. The Blackwolf Run complex is near the hotel. Whistling Straits is about ten miles away.
Rates range from $147 to $790.
(800) 344-2838, ext. 700 www.destinationkohler.com
The Inn on Woodlake
The more economical choice in the village of Kohler, The Inn on Woodlake overlooks an 11-acre spring-fed lake with a private beach and putting green. This 121-room hotel combines tasteful accommodations with a relaxed atmosphere.
Rates range from $155-$327.
(800) 919-3600 www.destinationkohler.com
Although the lure of the links pulls strong in the Great Lakes, there’s much more to do than play golf. Check out some of the more popular nongolf activities the area has to offer. Of course, the Great Lakes offers some of the best hiking, biking and fishing in the world.
Local Knowledge
ART & SOUL STUDIO
433 East Mitchell Street, Petoskey (231) 348-7577
Walk right in and explore your creative side! Paint your own pottery and have fun with kid’s crafts, too! This is a great place for “tweens” and kids of all ages. No appointment necessary.
BAY VIEW ASSOCIATION
Petoskey (231) 347-6225
Historic Victorian community of nearly 500 public and private buildings is on the National Register of Historic Places. It offers light classical music concerts, recreational programs, lectures and recitals. Call for pricing & schedules.
BIRCHWOOD FARMS EQUESTRIAN CENTER
518 West Townline, Harbor Springs (231) 526-2868
Situated on 350 acres, this Equestrian Center has everything the horse lover could want! Scenic guided trail rides are offered ($45.00 for adults; $35.00 for children – must be 10 years or older to ride). Lessons may also be arranged. Carriage rides, hay rides and sleigh rides available seasonally. Call in advance for pricing and reservations.
The next morning on the Irish (a fine course in its own right), we’d find ourselves walking along with bell-ringing sheep and enjoying the spectacular morning, but I have to admit — every time I caught a glimpse of the Straits over the dunes that separate the two courses, I found myself wishing for one more round, one more chance at glory, one more opportunity to redeem my golf swing and write a sequel to this chapter of my own golf history. Whistling Straits is now on my must-return list. Until then, I look at that perfect photograph of the 18th at sunrise every day and wonder when I’ll get back — and why it took me so long to go in the first place.
As a result, golfers from all over the eastern seaboard and the Midwest now come to Michigan and Wisconsin to play summer golf. From April through October, these courses are busy from early until late–very late, as in mid-summer the sun does not set until after 10 p.m.
