Faults And Fixes

Put Your Swing Together

Nobody has the perfect golf swing all the time. Even the greatest golfers in the world have little ticks and flaws that occasionally creep into their swings. What separates them from us isn’t so much the flaws, but their uncanny ability to correct them. They work them out of their system faster and put their swings together quicker, more efficiently and often in better form than before.

Width = More Power

I don’t promise to turn you into a Tour professional, but I do believe the following pages will help you fix your swing flaws and turn your game around. The key is in understanding not only the flaws and what they cause, but how to avoid them and ingrain better, more repeatable swing habits. Read on, and soon enough, your swing will be better than ever.

If you’re struggling with a lack of power in your golf swing, it might be due to a lack of width in your backswing. Put it this way: The greater width you have, the bigger your swing arc. The bigger your swing arc, the more room you have to increase your clubhead speed before you strike the ball. So, how do you get width? In this case, it means spacing out the distance between your right hand and right shoulder (opposite hand and shoulder for lefties).
By doing this, the shoulder also will have more room to turn, meaning that both your width and torque will improve. The resulting effect? More power! {mospagebreak}

You probably can tell just by looking at the photo that something is wrong here.
A collapsed backswing will inevitably lead to a weak and inconsistent downswing, not to mention a reverse pivot. With a wide arc, the body is more prone to shift weight properly when compared to that of a collapsed position.

What not to do

EQUIP Tip: Want More Width? Try A Longer Shaft
If you’re looking for more width, in addition to this tip, consider adding some length to your clubshafts. The longer the shafts, the greater the arc width and the more speed you’ll generate. Even if you gain only two to three mph in driver clubhead speed, for every one mph increase, you’ll get about three to four yards in distance.

You do the math. Just be aware—if you go longer, something has got to give. In most cases, a longer shaft means less accuracy.

Make solid contact

If you truly want to make solid impact (and do it more often), one aspect of the swing you need to master is controlling the flex of the right knee during the swing.

Although it may not seem as important, the flex in the knee does two things: On the backswing, it tightens your hip turn, meaning your upper body will keep turning while your lower body resists it. This is what’s known as the “X-factor,” where the upper and lower resist one another and build a ton of stored energy. Secondly, the flexed knee helps you better drive your weight into your forward side on the downswing.

What not to do:
A straight leg at the top of your backswing not only messes up your swing plane, but also robs you of power and likely leads you into the dreaded reverse-pivot position. It also means you’ll be more prone to swaying away from the ball, greatly reducing your consistency and power.

Focus Tip: Take a few practice swings, concentrating solely on keeping the right knee flexed throughout the entire swing. On the downswing, remember that the knee ought to drive toward the target and, at the finish position, should be facing directly at the target as well. Concentrate on this simple drill and you’ll see improvements in no time. {mospagebreak}

Sometimes the simplest solution to a swing flaw is the best one. In the case of shots that curve too much to the left or right, the best way to get back on track is to get your swing connected again. In the photo, I’m wearing a strap designed to keep my arms together and in front of my chest. Combine that with a shaft that’s aligned closely with my sternum, and I’m making a few simple swings using my body to turn while keeping my arms dead set in front of my chest. Go ahead and hit a few balls with this in mind, and keep the body turning in unison with the arms. If the ball curves a little left or right—play it! That’s your natural ballflight!


Control your curvature

Hands ahead of body: Hook
If your hands are too active during the swing and outrace the body, you’re likely to release too soon, either causing a wicked hook or pulled shot

Hands behind body: Slice
If your hands are too far behind your body, you won’t be able to release in time, meaning the club face will be open at impact. This leads to big, ballooning slices that not only veer way right, but also do so with pithy power.

EQUIP Tip: Stay Connected
There are a lot of training-aid companies that make all sorts of flexible straps designed to keep your arms together and in front of your chest.

Hop online and check out the Armaster. It will help you stay connected, as well as help you better rotate the forearms through the impact zone. You can get it at golfaroundtheworld.com.

Distance	Distance	Control
With the ball forward in my stance and my hands in a high grip position, I can sweep the ball with hands that have already begun to release. This will launch the ball higher into the air. I might lose spin, but I’ll make up for it with a high launch.	With a centered ball position and neutral grip, I’ll hit a lower pitch, but with more spin than I had on the farther shot. If I want to hit it higher or lower with moderate spin from here, all I need to do is open or close the clubface ever so slightly.	From close to the green, I’m choking down on the grip and have the ball in the back of my stance. This will produce a lower shot, but with a good amount of spin to help the ball check up a little quicker.

While it never hurts to carry multiple wedges in the bag, it’s important you understand how each wedge performs from different distances with different ball positions and grips. In this case, I’m hitting all three shots with the same sand wedge, but with varying ball positions and grips. Practice what I’m doing here so you can get a better feel for the variety of shots your wedges can hit. Think of it this way: If you carry three wedges, that’s at least nine different shots you can play from these three distances. {mospagebreak}

Chip the “y”

What not to do

Stick with the lowercase “y,” not the capital “Y”! By keeping your left arm in line with the shaft, you’re effectively reducing any opportunities for error, meaning you’re more likely to hit consistent shots. Also, a hands-ahead approach means you’ll prevent dips and chunks into the ball and instead will help you hit cleaner, crisper shots.

Visually, this tip should be a cinch to master. The goal is to practice retaining the lowercase “y” formed by the left arm, the shaft and the right arm. In essence, the “y” should be present at the setup and also at impact (even though your body should be turned more toward the target). By keeping the “y” intact, you ensure your hands remain ahead of the ball and the clubface faces the target. Practice this position, and you’ll find it a lot easier to gauge shot distance and roll from different places around the green

Putting controls

EQUIP Tip: Bounce Angles
When it comes to chipping, the bounce angle of your wedges makes a big difference. If you struggle with fat shots, opt for a wedge with a higher bounce angle (the measure of angle between the leading edge and ground with the club upright). If you play on tighter lies, or if you hit the ball thin, try a wedge with a lower bounce angle.

Even though the hands ought to work as a unit during the putting stroke, each hand has a specific purpose. The left hand is responsible for squaring the putterface through impact. The right hand manages the loft of the putterface, also at impact. To get both hands working as they should, practice putting with one hand at a time. With the left, work on holing 5- to 10-footers. With the right hand, concentrate on your distance control from 10 to 20 feet by getting the ball to stop no more than a couple of feet past the hole. This will train both hands to work on their respective jobs independently so they become more effective at working together come time to make a real stroke.

What Not To Do:
Buy A Putter That Doesn’t Match Your Stroke
Buying a new putter these days can be complicated. As much as today’s models may be billed as “one-size-fits-all,” the reality is they aren’t. Different shapes, weights, lengths and so forth all can either enhance or corrupt a golfer’s putting stroke. For instance, if your stroke is straight back and through, mallets will help you become even straighter. If you arc it, a heel-toe blade will make it easier for you. Experiment with different models so you can be sure you have the right one for your stroke.

EQUIP Tip: Counterbalancing
Jack Nicklaus did it with lead tape under his grip. Counterbalancing isn’t anything new, but the Tour Lock Pro has made it a lot easier and more effective. With a series of weight options to choose from, the Tour Lock Pro counterbalancing can greatly affect the feel of any club (not just the putter) and, depending on whom you ask, make your stroke steadier and more balanced. I use it in all my clubs and swear by its effectiveness. Check it out at tourlockpro.com.

Tom Stickney is the director of instruction at Bighorn GC in California and The Club at Cordillera in Colorado.

How To Avoid The Blow Up Round

Make practice swings on a sidehill lie with the ball above your feet. This flattens your swing and takes away your slice.

It probably has happened to all of you at one time or another. You’re in the middle of an otherwise solid round of golf when suddenly it all heads south, and no matter what you try, nothing can get your game back on track. It’s a frustrating experience, and one that’s sometimes made worse by trying to right the ship.

While a good post-round practice session is what’s really needed, there are some mid-round quick fixes that can temporarily rescue your game (although I emphasize that these fixes aren’t meant to be permanent). From shanking to chunking, I’ve passed on four of my favorite mid-round quick fixes that will stop the bleeding, boost your confidence and get you back in the game. The next time you find yourself in the middle of a blowup round, apply some of these band-aids and finish strong. Photography By Warren Keating

Fix Your Slice
If you start hitting a big banana slice mid-round, your clubface is open at impact and the angle of your downswing is probably very steep.

The only way to cure it is to flatten your swing and square your clubface at impact. This means you have to rotate your hands and arms over one another through the swing. A simple way to do this is to make a few practice swings on a sidehill lie with the ball above your feet. This flattens and rounds off your swing, making it easier to square your clubface at impact. Feel your right hand and arm rolling over your left, squaring and closing the clubface through impact.

Stop Chunking It
If you find yourself hitting it fat (hitting behind the ball and taking a big divot) or drop-kicking it (hitting behind the ball without much of a divot and then having your clubhead skip into the ball), you’re not adequately transferring weight from your back foot to your front foot in the downswing. To fix this mid-round, place a headcover about six inches behind where your ball would be and take a few practice swings. Having this obstacle behind the ball forces you to avoid hitting it and, therefore, to swing through the ball and transfer your weight to your front foot. Doing this allows the club tobottom out at the correct point so you make solid contact that compresses the ball.

A shank happens when your hands are too far outside or inside the target line. Get them back on-plane with this clubless drill. Have your hands brush your pants.

No More Shanks!
A shank occurs when the ball makes contact with the club’s heel. This can happen two ways: by either coming over the top or by getting stuck. In both cases, your hands are too far away from your body at impact. To stop shanking (and to keep your hands close to your body), try to brush your hands against your pants as you make your downswing. Here, I’m trying to get my hands to swing down close to my body (like my hands are dropping into my right pocket) so I’m in a good position to strike the shot with a center hit. Do this and you can say adios to the shanks.

Steve Dahlby, PGA, teaches at the Golf Club Scottsdale and Forest Highlands. To learn more, visit swingmentors.com.

Back On Track
The path on which your putterhead travels influences the direction your ball rolls. Although not always the case, a putter that goes from outside the target line to inside it makes the ball go left; a path that moves from inside the target line to outside it makes the ball go right. Most good putters have a path that starts inside the target line on the backswing, squares at impact and moves back to the inside on the followthrough. If you struggle to find this path while playing, go to an area of the fringe that has a slight arc and place the toe of your putter against it, make some swings and trace it with your putterhead. Doing this controls your swing path and encourages a proper release.

Weight It Out

The words weight shift can cause a lot of confusion. For starters, a weight shift isn’t something that you should forcibly do; rather, during the swing, your body weight should shift naturally as you make a proper turn. Any manipulation of weight from side to side is a mistake.

Here, we have three scenarios. In the pair of photos below, I’ve forcibly shifted (slid, actually) my weight away during my backswing. Not only does this move inhibit a good turn, but my body needs to slide back to the ball in order to make contact, which means I’ll likely start to slide too far forward and end up missing the ball. This excessive sliding back and forth will rob my swing of consistency.

Conversely, some golfers restrict a natural weight shift on the backswing, (as shown in the bottom pair of photos on the left page). This is called a reverse pivot, where my weight actually moves away from the ball through the downswing—another big no-no.

The correct way to shift your weight is to understand that a weight shift means placing the majority of your weight over your back foot on the backswing and over the forward foot on the downswing. A weight shift isn’t a weight shift from side to side; instead, it’s a weight shift from leg to leg. Doing it right doesn’t mean you have to shift laterally. It means that as you turn away from the ball, your body weight will shift naturally to the back leg, and as you unwind on the downswing, it will shift naturally to the forward leg.

Practice shifting your weight without forcing your body to slide, and you’ll soon see that more consistent shots are a lot easier to pull off.

Frank O’Connell, PGA, teaches at We-Ko-Pa Golf Club in Arizona. For a lesson, visit smartlessons.com.

Faults And Fixes

The perpetuation of the many myths in traditional golf instruction has led to countless injuries, inconsistent results and a world of frustration. Simply swinging the golf club in the way that the body is designed to move will lead to greater consistency and greater enjoyment for a significantly longer time. The eight myths covered in this story are the classics, and I’m certain that just about every avid player has read or been taught at least one, if not all, of them at one time or another. Understanding why these traditional pieces of golf instruction are wrong for you, and how to fix them, will free you of some major obstacles and allow you to improve both your swing and your ballstriking almost immediately. Read on and get ready to improve.

Myth #1: When addressing the ball, bend from your waist or hips.
Fault: First of all, bones don’t bend, which is exactly what the hips consist of. Bending from the waist produces a curve or slouch in the lower back, severely restricting rotation.

Fix: A proper setup must yield two things: balance and range of motion. A setup that doesn’t allow for both to be maintained throughout the swing is flawed from the start. Range of motion is unrestricted when you bend from the hip joints. This puts the spine in a neutral position, which allows for maximum stability and mobility. If you sit on the edge of a chair with your back straight, you’re bent at your hips.

Drill: Begin by standing tall with your feet hip-width apart. Take one hand and put it in the small of your back with your palm open and facing out. Now place a golf club in your hand, holding the shaft near the clubhead so that the shaft runs straight up your spine with the grip end against the back of your head. Maintaining these contact points with the club, bend forward from the hip joints. If the grip end of the club is still in contact with the back of your head while holding the end of the club in the small of your back, then you’re bending properly. If not, it means you’re either rounding your shoulders or bending from the waist, not the hip joints.


Above, Left: Taking the club away with the left shoulder tends to create poor rotation and a disconnection of the arms. Notice how my arms and club don’t make it to the top here. Above, Right: Using the right shoulder to initiate the takeaway creates a much fuller and more connected turn. Here, you’ll notice that my shoulders have rotated freely.

Myth #2: Start the backswing with the left shoulder and hands.
Taking the club away with the left shoulder tends to create poor rotation and a disconnection of the arms. Notice how my arms and club don’t make it to the top here.

Fault: Beginning the swing this way restricts shoulder rotation and causes the club to get inside or behind your body.

Fix: Start the swing with the right shoulder. This keeps the hands in front of the chest and guarantees a full shoulder turn. By initiating the swing with the right shoulder, the entire body stays connected. Conversely, starting the swing with the left shoulder doesn’t necessarily turn the right shoulder, creating a myriad of potential problems, chief among them, limiting the range of motion.

Drill: Cross your arms in front of you. Lift your elbows and forearms away from you until they’re parallel to the ground. Start with your left shoulder, rotating it to your chin. Return to the beginning and start with your right shoulder. Notice how much easier it is to rotate the upper body.

Myth #3: Keep the left arm straight in the backswing.
Fault: This extension causes the left shoulder to fold in toward the chest, causing the upper body to stop turning and the arms to lift. In turn, this promotes the right shoulder to dip on the downswing. What’s more important is where the chest is, because that’s where the length of the arms is. When the club is extended back with a straight left arm, the chest doesn’t rotate fully, limiting range of motion and weight transfer. Typically, this causes weak and poor contact.

Fix: Maintain the natural bend in the left arm, both at address and at the top of the backswing. This allows the shoulders to complete the backswing without dipping or lifting and prevents the hips and lower body from swaying. Instead, the chest is rotated for a full release to occur at impact.

Drill: Begin by addressing the ball. From the address position, hinge the club until it rests on your right shoulder. Now, complete the backswing so that your upper body is behind the ball. This demonstrates the correct position at the top of the backswing. Slightly lift the club off your shoulder, make your swing and hit the ball!

Myth #4: Hold the wrist angle for as long as possible.
Fault: Holding the wrist angle causes players to spin their hips, tilt and drop the right shoulder and work under the ball, resulting in pull cuts.

Fix: Approximately 75 percent of the clubhead speed at impact comes from the unhinging of the wrists on the downswing. Another 11 percent comes from the unhinging of the arms. Thus, 86 percent of clubhead speed comes from the arms and wrists unhinging. When the hands get thigh-high on the downswing, allow the wrists to unhinge. This will give a full release with more power and accuracy.

Drill: Players who try to hold the angle are depending on their lower body to drive them through impact. Instead, try holding the clubhead in your right hand and swing the club by only hinging and unhinging your arm and wrist. Feel the speed?

Myth #5: Keep the head still in the backswing.
Fault: A head that doesn’t move in the backswing prevents the golfer from getting the upper body behind the ball. This will lead to swaying or a reverse pivot, with the majority of body weight placed on the front (closest to target) foot.

Fix: Allow the head to move toward the back foot on the second half of the backswing. This allows the chest to get behind the ball without swaying.

Drill: Put on a necktie. At address, when hanging straight down, the tie should fall in line with the tips of your toes. At the top of the backswing, the tie should now be pointing inside your right foot. If your head has remained still, the tie will point inside your left foot because your chest will not have moved behind the ball. Once you get the feel for this move, you should feel significantly more dynamic.

Myth #6: Stay behind the ball at impact.
Fault: This causes the golfer’s right shoulder to dip and work under the ball, resulting in fat, thin, hooked or sliced shots.

Fix: At impact, the ball begins to climb the clubface, imparting backspin. The loft of the club determines the trajectory of the ball. The player must allow the head to move toward the target so that the chest can move forward and get the body in a stacked position with the shoulders over the hips. This will allow the player to trap and compress the ball, resulting in more distance and accuracy.

Drill: Make a half swing using just your chest, shoulders, arms and wrists. Allow the head to move back and forth with the clubhead. Focus on having the top groove strike the ball at or above the equator. In other words, cover the ball with the clubhead, or said another way, put a lid on the ball. Be certain to allow your head to move with the club.

Myth #7: Take a wide stance for more stability, balance and power.
Fault: A wide stance limits the player’s rotation in the hips and chest and prevents getting completely to the left side on the downswing. The only way to get behind the ball is to sway.

Fix: At address, the thigh bones and shin bones should line up to maximize stability and mobility. In other words, set the feet hip-width apart. This gets the joints stacked up and properly aligned for ease of movement.

Drill: Imagine yourself waterskiing. As you’re being pulled behind the boat, you notice that your skis are hip-width apart. As the boat turns from side to side, you’re able to glide easily through the water because your body is in perfect balance. As you widen your skiing stance, it becomes harder and harder to maintain control through the turns, until you finally lose your balance and wipe out! Remember to keep your feet hip-width apart.

_Ê

The notion that a wide stance leads to more power is incorrect. A stance that places the feet at shoulder-width will allow your body weight to shift freely.

Myth #8: The hips and stomach should face the target at impact.
Fault: This concept causes the hips to rotate too soon, causing the right shoulder to dip and the clubface to open. To square up the clubface, the hands must be manipulated. This is a leading cause of tendinitis in golfers.

Fix: Staying connected through impact causes the hips and shoulders to be in alignment, which yields greater ballstriking consistency and lessens injury to the lower back, shoulders, elbows and wrists. It also doesn’t require manipulation of the golf club, allowing it to be released at the correct time.

Drill: Try to feel that your hands and zipper are passing through impact at the same time.

_Ê

At the top, you’ll notice my hips have opened early and the clubface has overrotated. If you stay connected (above), the clubface will be square and your shots straight._Ê

Carl Rabito is a Master PGA Professional and strength and conditioning specialist. He currently teaches at Bowling Brook GC in Illinois and Sanctuary Ridge GC in Florida. For more info, visit www.carlrabitogolf.com.

Plane Pains

Talking about your swing plane is one thing, but seeing it on video is a whole lot better. Here at the TOUR Academy, we make an effort to film golfers from face on and down the target line so they can see for themselves whether_Ê their swing is on plane or not. The benefits my students get from seeing their swing plane on camera has greatly helped them improve.

What’s it mean to be on plane, you ask? Being on plane essentially means swinging the club at an angle that’s optimized for consistent, straight shots. In the photo, that angle is the middle one, where the shaft is bisecting my right shoulder at the top of the swing. Many golfers tend to get too steep, meaning they hit a lot of sliced shots, fat shots and shots from off the toe of the club. With the driver, a swing that’s too steep is likely to produce a lot of scuff marks on the top edge of your driver–a mark no one wants to see.

On the flip side, the opposite error is swinging on too flat of a plane. This is the kind of mistake I see more accomplished players make. Generally, this mistake comes with the opposite set of errors. Instead of being too steep, the plane is too shallow, causing hands to sometimes easily over-rotate and close the clubface excessively through impact. In other words, the flatter you are, the more likely you are to hook it. Better players can relate to hitting good drives, but struggling with hitting it left with the irons–a common trait of a swing that’s too flat.

To get in the right position, first start with a video camera. If you can, have a buddy record your swing from the angle you see here. Then, pause the video at the top of your swing and inspect whether your clubshaft bisects your shoulder as mine does here. If it does, you’re on plane at the top, and all you need to do is swing naturally to get the club back down to the ball at impact. If you’re too flat or too upright, you’ll see immediately what to fix. Practice holding the proper position at the top and ingrain it into your memory. If you find yourself hitting it fat and to the right, you’re probably too steep. If you hook the ball too much, remember that you’re probably swinging it too flat.

See how the shaft bisects my left shoulder in the correct position? That’s what you want. If the club is behind or in front of the shoulder, you’re too flat or too steep.
_Ê

John Stahlschmidt, PGA, is the head instructor at the TOUR Academy at the TPC of Scottsdale, Ariz. For information, visit www.touracademy.com.

Swing Management 101

There are countless possible flaws in the golf swing that can lead to an endless variety of bad shots. However, in my 14 years of teaching golf, there are a few recurring swing flaws that afflict both amateurs and touring professionals alike. These flaws lead to a series of negative chain reactions during the swing and eventually wreak havoc on one’s ability to make a repetitive and powerful golf swing. Let’s take a look at some of the more common (but frequently overlooked) flaws that may have already crept into your golf swing, using my simple spot-and-fix techniques. With a few minor adjustments here and there, these flaws can be eliminated from your swing for good.

Fault:
Club taken back too far inside results in a blocked shot
Wow, have I seen this one a few times! Anytime the club is taken back too inside the target line, it’s darn near certain the golf ball isn’t going to fly straight. Not only will you likely block the ball to the right, but the upper body will rotate too much, and the lower body will never catch up. Therefore, when it’s time to unwind on the forwardswing, the lower body will be so far ahead of the upper body that it becomes virtually impossible to swing along the target line. Some golfers get away with pulling the club inside the target line and hitting blocked shots by simply aiming farther left. Though that sometimes works, a blocked shot is far less powerful than one hit down the line.

Fix:
Take the club back along target line for as long as possible
In this photo, I’ve taken the club back along the target line for as long as possible while still staying on plane. If I continue lifting the club straight up, I’ll lose my spine angle and my weight shift will suffer. Instead, once the club starts lifting off the ground, I’ll allow my body to rotate away from the ball. In this photo, as the club reaches waist high, you can see my shoulders have already begun turning, my lower body is stable, my knees remain flexed and the clubhead bisects both my forearms. Truth is, since the swing is both round and at an angle, it’s impossible to take the club straight back and through. But, in the first few inches, it’s a must-do to eliminate blocked shots.

Fault:
Reverse pivot results in fat shots and pop-ups
You don’t even need to see my upper body to know what’s wrong here! I’ve made a huge turn, but my weight has never left my front foot. As a result, I’m forced to lunge behind the ball on the downswing and scoop at it (resulting in a fat shot). If that doesn’t happen, another bad scenario is that I’ll never get behind the ball enough and will come at it steeply on the downswing, resulting in a pop-up (not to mention a scuff mark on the crown). As for my weight transfer, I’ve done little more than drive my weight downward into my forward foot. Also, you can see that most of the tension is on my forward leg, as indicated by the ripples on that side of my trousers. (Notice how my back trouser leg is wrinkle free?) This position is very unstable and weak, making it hard to make solid contact from here.

Fix:
Manage your weight properly
Now we’re on the right track. To manage your weight properly, the majority of your body mass must shift to your back foot during the backswing. It’s imperative to remember that shift and slide don’t mean the same thing. A proper weight shift is due to a proper weight turn, or coil. As the body turns away, the weight should naturally shift to the back (my right) foot. Any contrived weight shift is probably a weight slide, which inhibits the body from turning properly. Turning is key for power! Here, you can see I’ve loaded up my back leg with torque and that my trousers are tightened. All that’s left for me is to continue turning my upper body until my club is parallel and then unwind in unison on the downswing. Due to centripetal force, the upper body will unwind faster than the lower, even though both are initiated at the same time.

Fault:
Late wrist cock results in swaying and loss of distance
Among the most overlooked components of the golf swing is the importance of wrist movements. Many amateurs feel the key for more accuracy is to minimize wrist cock all together. Wrong! A proper wrist cock helps the body rotate more effectively and, in turn, helps increase speed through the ball. Here, I’m in a position that’s likely to lead to the position on the left page: a reverse pivot. Without a wrist cock, I’ll run out of room to swing, my body weight will tilt forward and I’ll have no idea what it should feel like to initiate the downswing. I’m also not going to get much clubhead speed and distance without cocking my wrists.

Fix:
Set the wrist earlier
Now we’re talking! Once the hands reach waist high (as shown here), the wrists should be almost fully cocked to a 90-degree angle. My left arm is straight and my right elbow is tucked downward, unlike the chicken wing look in the fault photo. From this position, I’m able to make a much more efficient rotation during the swing. Also, pay attention to my shoulders. Because of the wrist cock, I’m able to avoid dipping my left shoulder. Any shoulder dipping in this direction is a big no-no, so by cocking the wrists, I’m able to swing with a more level shoulder plane. If anything, at impact I want the left shoulder higher than the right. Never the other way around!

Fault:
Early hands release results in a loss of power
If you release your hands too soon, it’s a sure bet you’re going to lose power! Now some argue that amateurs should release the hands sooner than touring pros, and I agree. But if you’re too soon, you run the risk of casting the club, which seriously leaks horsepower from your swing. It’s also a sign of hitting the ball as opposed to swinging through the ball. An early release is sometimes caused by an overactive right hand (left for southpaws). In this photo, my right hand has taken over, and I’m on the verge of hitting a weak, sweeping duck hook to the left. The face is already square, and you can only imagine how shut it’ll be on the ball!

Fix:
Turn the body before you release the hands
See a trend here? The gist of this article is to get the body turning properly! In the critical nanoseconds before impact, it’s imperative that the body continue turning well into the finish. And regarding your wrist cock, if you continue your body turn, I guarantee your hands will release. The force of your rotation, along with gravity, will cause your hands to unfold at the lowest point on your swing arc. It’s here, where the arms and wrists extend and maximum clubhead speed is achieved. By the way, it’s also where today’s modern clubshafts are designed to release, resulting in even more power. As for accuracy, by not manipulating the hands and turning instead, you’ll see shots that fly straighter than shots you try to steer._Ê

Barry Goldstein is a teaching professional at Inverarry CC in Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

Copy This, Not That

It’s no secret that you can learn a lot from watching the world’s best golfers. They hit some amazing shots, make incredible putts and hit the ball extraordinary lengths. And while there’s a lot of swing cues we should try and copy from the pros, there are four things I think most amateurs have no business trying to duplicate. (That is, unless you don’t have a day job and can practice 8 hours a day!) I’m going to show you these four moves and then explain what you should be doing instead. Now don’t be discouraged! These alternative methods are just as effective and are sure to help you shoot lower scores! Let’s get started…

1. Lag Time
Jack Nicklaus once said that you can never release the club too soon if you’re on plane. However, it seems many amateurs are wrongly fixated on retaining a wrist hinge for as long as possible and end up with serious control problems. Check out the photo of Ernie Els (below). The key to his lag isn’t his wrist cock, it’s his ability to turn his lower body wide open before impact while keeping his shoulders square to the ball. That’s his real source of power! For better shot control and distance, release the hands sooner and concentrate more on emulating Ernie’s body position, not that of his wrists.

Softer Shafts
Still fishing for more distance? Consider a shaft upgrade first before you dive into a total swing overhaul. A softer shaft will help you produce more lag naturally, thanks to improved loading and bending properties. With a proper fitting, you can find a shaft designed to release in an optimum location for maximum clubhead speed right where you need it. And if it’s more control you want, try a shaft with a softer tip section. A softer tip will do two things: it’ll add backspin (more backspin equals straighter shots) and more torque, which lends more forgiveness on off-center hits. Just make sure you get the right flex, length and weight for all the clubs in your bag, from driver to wedge. It’ll make a huge difference in your game!

2. Left Foot Up, Left Arm Bent
Unless you’re as lean and flexible as Adam Scott (left), maintaining a straight left arm and holding both feet on the ground atop the backswing is darn near impossible. If you try, you run the risk of dipping the left shoulder, or worse, developing a reverse pivot. Instead, do as I’m doing here. By allowing my forward foot to lift and by maintaining just a little flex in my left arm, I’m able to make a bigger turn than if I tried to hit it like Adam Scott. My stance is also narrower than his, allowing me to strengthen my coil away from the ball.

Flexibility Is Key
Being flexible is more than just being able to get the body into more powerful positions. It’s also a preventative measure that can make the game enjoyable for years to come. Take a few minutes before your next round or practice session to get loose. Pay attention to the critical areas of your back, shoulders, legs and abs. You’ll not only reduce your risk of injury, but after time, you’ll find yourself more relaxed and able to make a better and more fluid golf swing._Ê

3. Wristy Strokes Can Help
We’ve all seen Tiger drain some tough putts. His ability to square the face while maintaining almost no wrist movement is downright uncanny and very difficult to copy. (For those of you who have tried, do you find yourself missing putts to the right?) Some wrist bend can actually help! It helps stabilize the body and secondly, by adding some wrist movement during the stroke, it becomes easier to square the clubface at impact. The putting stroke, like all golf swings, is on an arc and actually opens slightly on the backswing and closes slightly on the forward swing. Adding some wrist release helps make it easier to square the clubface!_Ê

Putter Length
If you haven’t thought much about putter length, it’s okay, most golfers haven’t! Putter length is critical, since it’s imperative you have the right length to match your most comfortable and natural setup position. If you have a putter that’s too long or short, your stroke will suffer. Therefore, don’t just take the 35-inch standard as right for you. Get your putter fitted. It is, after all, the club you use the most in the bag!

4. Bump & Run, Not Flop & Stop
They’re fun to watch, eh? Those high flop shots you see PGA Tour players hit are exciting, but for most people, they’re not the best option around the green. Reason being, they require a deft and trained touch that can only be refined if you play a lot of golf. Instead, if you have some green to work with, the bump and run shot with a PW or 7-9 iron is very effective. It’s also more predictable, since the ball will likely roll with both good and bad contact. However, if you come to a tight spot and all you can do to get it close is flop it, make sure you accelerate and let the loft kick in by holding the clubface open like Sergio Garcia in the photo on the left. It’s a tough shot, but not an impossible one if you put in the needed practice time.

About Bounce
The bounce angle of your irons greatly affects your ability to hit different shots. Higher bounce angles are more effective in soft conditions when digging isn’t preferred. On the other hand, when some digging is needed, lower bounce models are more effective. Typically, to hit a bump and run, both high and low bounce angles can be effective. But come time to hit some quick, high flop shots, a low bounce wedge is a must to prevent unwanted thin shots.

Jeff Yurkiewicz is a teaching professional at the Kostis McCord Learning Center in Scottsdale, Ariz. For more, visit www.kostismccordlearning.com.

Bonus video Tip: Want to hear more insights from Jeff? Click here!

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The Key Ingredient

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The golf swing’s a funny thing. Sometimes it’s racked with errors, yet somehow, at impact, everything is where it needs to be and the ball shoots off powerfully in the direction you intended. Other times, every shift, angle and hinge is perfect, yet a small misstep on the way to the ball results in shots that can only be described as horrific. In the first instance, Lady Luck is certainly on your side, but as we all know, she rarely hangs around for too long. And the fact that a single hiccup can bring your whole technique crashing down is, to put it bluntly, just the way golf is.

I’ve been teaching golf for over 50 years, and one of the most damaging errors I’ve seen consistently throughout this period of time is knee movement, specifically, a straightening of the right knee on the backswing. This seemingly innocent mistake gives the golfer almost zero chance of making a quality pass at the ball and fuels both flawed backswings and downswings. As you’ll soon learn, however, correctly managing right knee movement makes producing a fundamentally sound motion a fairly easy task. Truly, it’s a key ingredient to any good swing.

Knee Keys In
Everyone knows that the golf swing is both an around and up-and-down motion. Where the around part is considered, your right knee (left for left-handers) plays a critical role in that it serves as the hub around which your body turns both back and through. The only way it can successfully serve as this hub (and facilitate appropriate weight shift, as we’ll soon discuss) is if it remains flexed.

A flexed right knee throughout the backswing facilitates coil, the needed separation between the upper and lower body that creates potential energy that’s eventually released into the back of the golf ball. A flexed right knee braces the lower body, stopping its turn while allowing the upper body to perform its full rotation. Also, the flexed right knee affords the stability needed to transfer weight to your right side on the backswing and position it in your right hip at the top. Furthermore, the flexed knee position keeps the clubshaft on the appropriate backswing plane, established by the arrangement of your arms and club at address.

If and when the right knee flex is lost, as is the case with so many amateur swings, weight is thrown from the right side back to the left (reverse pivot). That’s a big no-no. Second, straightening the knee moves the backswing plane to the inside, which can lead to all kinds of downswing misery. Third, losing the right knee flex gives your lower body too much room to turn, in addition to allowing it to sway away from the ball on the backswing. As a result, you lose all of your coil. Potential energy is nil, and all you’re left with power-wise is what you can generate by moving your arms as fast as you can back down to the ball. It’s an unleveraged motion that’s both weak and inconsistent and certainly no part of a successful swing.

From the top, things can only get worse. With a straight right knee, the only way you can get back to the ball is to violently slide targetward, a flaw devoid of rotation and, more often than not, one from which most amateurs cannot recover. Second, as the club moves down, your inability to push off from a posted right leg will strand weight on the right side at impact. Expect weak, glancing blows and numerous topped shots. The strong, athletic properties that define a fundamentally sound golf swing are lost. Amazing what a single flaw can do, right?

Lock & Load
Properly using the right knee as a rotational hub and as a support to accept the backswing weight shift to the right side is as easy as, well, maintaining flex in that knee until the swing unwinds through impact. Sounds easy enough, yet you’d be surprised how difficult it is for some players to retain flex. One reason for this is poor positioning at setup. Too many amateurs begin with not enough knee flex and too much bend from the waist. The proper posture at address is one that’s athletic, or ready for action. From your static position at address, you should feel as if you could move in any direction without hesitation, like a linebacker in football ready to pounce toward all sides of the field.

As far as maintaining flex, I advise my students to preset a solid, bent right knee. This preset goes beyond simply flexing the knee and holding it there. At address, and without lifting your right foot, bend in your right knee slightly, like you’re trying to point your kneecap at the golf ball. It’s just a slight kick in to the right. You should feel some tension in your right knee and sense some tension running up your right quadriceps and through your right hip. That bit of tension in your right knee and hip will both limit your lower body rotation (thus increasing coil) as well as stabilize your backswing. At the top, the tension created at address by kicking in the right knee should still reside in your right side. Use that tension to shift your weight through to your left as you bring the club into impact and beyond.

Use of this technique has allowed many of my students to better sense the physics of weight shift. It demystifies the swing, making it as simple as moving the club to the top and then back to the ball. There are many ways to turn a good swing into a bad one. So, too, are methods to make a bad swing decent. Presetting the right knee is just one of those techniques.

Instruction veteran Marshall Smith teaches at Peoria Ridge GC in Miami, Okla. Wardrobe was provided by Straight Down Clothing (www.straightdown.com).

Fact Or Fiction?

No matter where you are, where you go, or more appropriately, whom you end up playing golf with, it seems there’s always someone nearby who I like to call the resident E.O.E. (Expert on Everything). You know the type. It’s the fellow who knows how to help you increase your net worth and can explain how to install new copper pipes in your house without having to cut drywall. This same guy also watches a lot of golf on TV, and because he hears one or two commentators analyzing someone’s swing, he assumes their advice is well suited for you, too._Ê

Let it be known, when it comes to golf instruction, the truth isn’t necessarily the truth until you hear it come from an actual teaching pro. There are a lot of clich©s in golf instruction, and it’s about time to clarify some myths. You have to know that what works for certain touring pros might not work for you or for other touring pros, for that matter.

Fiction: Keep Your Head Still
If I had a penny for every time I heard someone say keep your head still! during the swing, I’d be a very wealthy man. Truth is, holding the head steady can create a lot of problems. On the backswing, a stationary head can impede the necessary weight shift back and through, often leading to a reverse pivot. On the downswing, a steady head (especially if you’ve been told the other myth, which is to keep your head down) can get in the way of the necessary upper-body rotation through the impact zone. A steady or down head can limit turn, thus causing the body to rise up, lose the necessary spine tilt, and cause you to hit all sorts of inconsistent and errant shots!

Fact: Let Your Head Slide Side-To-Side
First, remember that the head and neck should act as a straight extension of your spine, which should always have a slight lean toward the ball at address and throughout the swing. With the head in the correct position and the backswing underway, allow the head to shift to the side a few inches if necessary—more if you’re less flexible—to encourage the proper weight shift. Atop the backswing, it’s perfectly acceptable to move your head slightly back of where it was at address. (Sometimes a mirror and tape can help you see this.) Through the downswing, allow the head to slide forward toward the target. This will do the same for your downswing what moving your head back did for the backswing.

Fiction: Go With Comfort
If golf were meant to be easy, it wouldn’t be a four-letter word. The same goes with the comfort principle. Just because your grip is comfortable on the handle, doesn’t mean it’s correct. Often, E.O.Es say the best grip is the one that comes most natural to you. Well, that may be the case for Adam Scott, but for most of my students, the grip is the first flaw that begins a series of bad chain reactions. When a player says his or her grip is comfortable, he or she usually has a grip that’s too much in the palm and too little in the fingers. Or, another player might have a decent grip that doesn’t match his or her swing.

Fact: Go With What Works
Brace yourself! This may require some trial and error. Begin with a neutral grip, where the V formed by the crease in the index finger and thumb of your gloved hand point toward your right pectoral and your ungloved V points toward your right shoulder (left shoulder for southpaws). This is a good grip for golfers who struggle with a hook from time to time. If you try the neutral grip and you’re still slicing the ball, adjust to a strong grip. This means pointing the V of your gloved hand farther away from the target so that your gloved hand shows three knuckles. As for your ungloved hand, keep it the same.

Finally, if you’re still slicing, try a very strong grip. This means adjusting your gloved hand the same as you would for a strong grip, but this time, strengthen your ungloved hand by moving the V so it points off your right shoulder._Ê

Fiction: One Ball Position Suits All
Not quite. When Jack Nicklaus mentioned that he used one ball position, he didn’t necessarily mean one stance. Instead, he likely referred to one ball position relative to where each club bottoms out, which changes for a variety of shots. Why? A few reasons. First, clubs of different lengths reach the bottom of the swing arc in different places—longer clubs bottom out farther forward in the stance than shorter clubs. Second, longer clubs are, well, longer, requiring you to adjust how close or far you stand from the ball.

Fact: Adjust Your Ball Position
A good rule of thumb is to always assume that with a longer club, it’s better to have a ball position that’s too far forward than a ball position that’s too far back. Begin by first evaluating the length of your club, and with a few practice swings, find the spot on the turf where the club is consistently bottoming out. Then, in the spot just before the bottom, mark your ball position. Do this for each club, and notice how shorter clubs bottom out farther back in your stance than the longer ones.

Fiction: Improve Balance With Better Footwork
This myth is a little tricky. Good footwork is generally a prerequisite for good balance, but sometimes it’s possible to have decent footwork while having an unbalanced swing. For instance, some golfers assume that poor balance is due to an improper weight shift. To alleviate the problem, they start from the ground up and assume that a better weight shift is the key to fixing their balance issues. This includes sliding the weight onto the back foot, then transitioning to the forward foot on the downswing. (You’ve probably heard that one before, right?)_Ê

Fact: Better Balance Is Achieved Through Posture
If you really want to improve your weight shift and overall balance, you’ve got to start with the correct posture and maintain it throughout the entire swing. Check out the photo. You’ll see I’ve retained my spine angle through impact. That angle (the forward lean of my upper body toward the ball) is vital to allowing my arms to swing freely, as well as to allowing my hips and shoulders to rotate through the hitting zone. If I had bad posture, it would be tough to sync up my moves. In other words, imagine the body as a series of strings. The neck, back, legs and arms all should function like taut rubber bands—firm but flexible. As you initiate the backswing, maintain your spine angle. Do the same during the downswing, and you’ll see results fast!

Tom Leese, PGA, is a Master Instructor at the Resort Golf School at Angel Park in Las Vegas, Nev. For more info on how to book a lesson, visit www.angelpark.com.

No Layoffs!

No matter how hard you work at achieving a technically sound golf swing, once in a while you’ll encounter a small flaw that causes your shots to run amuck. One of the most overlooked and easy-to-fix mistakes golfers make involves the position of the hands at the top of the backswing. For all intents and purposes, you can have a perfect weight shift, a great arm extension, a powerful coil, and the perfect head and spine position, but if you don’t have your hands holding the clubshaft properly at the top of the swing–well, the downswing may as well be doomed from the start.

Take a look at these two photos. Can you see the difference? If not, take a look at the club. Notice how, in the right photo, the shaft and clubhead are both above my shoulder, thus indicating that I’ve made a full turn and my body and clubshaft are still on plane. In the photo to the left, the club is in a position called laid off, which means my hands have gotten lazy, and the clubshaft has strayed too far away from my body and from the target. This position can wreak havoc on my ability to hit consistent shots. If I’m laid off too much, I’ll have a hard time slotting the club correctly.

The photo on the right is how I want to be at the top of my backswing, even though I’m a little laid off from the target line (which is shown by the club on the ground). The trick is to not overdo it! To see if you have the clubhead too far from your body, check the position of your hands at the top of the backswing using a mirror. If a mirror isn’t available, try this: When you reach the top of your backswing, allow your hands to drop the club straight down. If the shaft hits your shoulder, then great–you’re on plane. If the shaft missed your body and the clubhead falls behind you, you’re probably laying off too much and you need to keep your hands and shaft above your shoulder in order to get back on track.

Check your position at the top frequently, and make sure you’re in the correct position at this critical point in the backswing. You’ll find that when your hands are in the right spot, it becomes a lot easier for the rest of your body to find the correct position. If you lay off the clubhead at the top, the chances of a big slice or snap hook are hugely magnified.

Craig Sasada, PGA, is Director of Golf at the beautiful Poipu Bay Golf Resort on the island of Kauai, Hawaii. For more on the resort, as well as all of Kauai, visit kauaidiscovery.com and poipubay.com.