October 17, 2026

Short Game

Sand Play Made Simple Like any aspect of the game, improving your bunker play takes practice. But practicing the wrong technique will do little but further ingrain whatever mistakes you’re already making. As a result, instead of getting better, you’ll probably just get worse. The good news is, the fundamentals of solid sand play are actually pretty simple, and can be learned quickly provided you take the time to make certain your setup and execution are correct.

The key to becoming confident in the sand is to make your goals realistic. Pulling off miracle shots that stop within gimme range takes a tremendous amount of talent and expertise. Don’t get greedy trying to get the ball close to the pin every time, at least initially. Start by learning to get the ball on the green consistently, with a chance to make a par-saving putt.

Standard Shot

Setup
To assume the proper position at address, be certain the ball is located toward the front of your stance, near the left heel. The face of the club should be open slightly, depending on the depth of the bunker. The more height you want on the shot, the more open the clubface must be. Position your feet fairly wide apart to promote balance, and point them to the left of the target with at least 75% of your body weight on the front foot.

Sand Made Simple Impact Finally, grip down slightly on the shaft for enhanced clubhead control, and work your feet into the sand until you feel your footing is stable and secure.

_ÊBackswing
For the best results, take the club up quickly in the backswing, which will promote a steep angle of attack. A wide stance with the majority of weight on the front foot and a swing with minimal rotation will promote this type of backswing. Be certain to take the club up to the top with your arms, not by cocking your wrists or turning your body. The length of the swing should always be relatively full, even on short shots.

_ÊImpact
At impact, your weight should move even farther toward the front foot while your knees continue to remain flexed. Contrary to what most recreational golfers believe, the club shouldn’t strike the ball from an outside-in swing path, but should instead come straight down the target line and then move left immediately after impact. The clubhead should enter the sand approximately two inches behind the ball and should pass through the sand on a flat trajectory. This will displace enough sand to throw the ball out of the bunker and onto the green. Any attempt to scoop the ball out of the sand will most likely result in a poor shot.

Finish_Ê
The length of the followthrough should be shorter than a full shot due to the lack of body rotation and the lack of release of the club through impact. The clubface should remain fairly open into the finish to allow the ball to come out softly and on the intended target line. Your arms should stay close to your body, with the speed of the swing, not its length, determining the distance the shot travels.


Ball is Below FeetWhat If?

…the ball is above your feet
Set up with the ball back in your stance, and choke down on the club to make up for the fact that the ball is closer to your torso than normal. Be sure to aim well right of the target because a shot from this type of lie will tend to go more left than you expect. The higher the ball is above your feet, the further right you should aim.

…the ball is below your feet

Set up with the ball forward in your stance and utilize the full length of the club (don’t choke down). Aim well left of the target because this type of lie tends to force the ball to the right. The lower the ball is below your feet, the more left you should aim.

…you have a downhill lie?
The key to playing a downhill sand shot is to set up with the ball in the middle of your stance, with your shoulders angled evenly with the slope of the bunker. Choke down a bit on the club to accommodate the location of the ball and the steepness of the slope. Expect the ball to come out lower than normal with plenty of spin, and aim accordingly.
Buried Lie
…the ball is in a buried lie?
Set up with the ball in the middle of your stance with the clubface square or even a bit closed (the worse the lie, the more closed the clubface should be). You need to swing hard at this shot to make sure it gets out of the sand. Keep in mind that this type of shot will come out with very little spin, and the ball will roll quite a bit when it hits the green.

PGA teaching professional Brady Riggs instructs at Woodley Lakes GC in Van Nuys, Calif.

 

Bad PitchThroughout my 15 years of teaching, I’ve learned no two golfers swing the club alike. I’ve also learned that, despite the individual thumbprint every player puts on his or her swing, good swings share several common traits at key points of the motion. Unfortunately, these traits differ from the commonalities found in the swings of lesser-skilled golfers. In fact, high-handicapped golfers tend to do the exact opposite of what a fundamentally solid swing requires. Of course, you don’t need to swing exactly like a Tour player to improve your ballstriking. However, building a few of the common traits found in higher-level swings into your own will pay huge dividends, especially those that pertain to pitching and chipping.

Good PitchThe biggest misconception high-handicappers have when hitting pitches around the green is that they feel the need to scoop or lift the golf ball into the air. It’s true the ball must elevate to clear a bunker, high grass, etc., but you can’t get it airborne via the scoop method. I cringe when I hear a golfer say they want to get under the ball when they pitch. This is the opposite of what you want to do. Good players understand that the clubhead must come into the ball on a descending path, so that the ball rolls up the clubface, creating backspin. Hitting down is what gets the ball up.

Setup For Pitching
Hitting crisp pitch shots begins with a good setup. Good players know that to hit down, they need to set up on top of the ball. Since high-handicappers want to help the ball up into the air, they do the opposite and set up behind the ball.

When a good player prepares to hit a pitch shot, he or she positions the ball in the middle or back of the stance. These players narrow their stance and lean toward the front leg. This position places the head on top of the ball and the hands in front of the ball at address. It also promotes a downward angle of attack, facilitating a ball-first, turf-second type of contact.

High-handicappers tend to do the opposite when they pitch or chip. The tendency with a high-handicapper is to try to lift the ball in the air. As such, most amateurs feel the need to lean back on the back foot and scoop the ball at impact. This setup promotes a sweeping motion, which is what you want for the driver, but not for short shots. As a result, high-handicapped players tend to hit fat and thin pitches.

Correction
Narrow your feet and play the ball back in the stance. If you want to hit a high pitch that lands soft, place the ball in the middle of the stance. If you want to hit a low running pitch, play the ball opposite your right heel. Lean your weight toward your front leg and press your hands forward. Your head should be on top of the ball.

To assure the proper setup, assume your normal stance, then remove your left hand from the handle and place it behind your left knee. This will force you to lean toward your front leg and will help you get your head on top of the ball at address. You should feel 70 percent of your weight on the front leg. Return your left hand to the grip, keeping these positions intact. Now you’re set up to hit down on the ball and produce an excellent, crisp pitch.

Class-A LPGA teaching professional Karen Palacios-Jansen is the Director of Instruction for Swing Blade Golf Enterprises (www.swingbladegolf.com).

Lofty Intentions The ability to salvage par from a difficult situation around the green often is the difference between contending for a tournament title and missing the cut. Common scenarios require a high-lofted shot over an obstacle, such as a bunker, heavy rough or a greenside mound. There are four approaches for successfully executing a lofted wedge shot. I refer to them as the Butterfly Lob, the Explosion Pitch, the Bird’s Nest Lob and the Standard Pitch. Which of these shots to choose depends upon the lie of the ball and the relationship between the carry distance and the distance the ball needs to roll. As such, your first requirement is to judge the lie and determine the needed trajectory. Then, choose the correct wedge to produce the desired loft, as well as the proper flange design to get the ball to come out as planned. Once you’ve established this plan, setup adjustments are the next concern, followed by the motion you need to execute, which encompasses arm and body movements, finish position and rhythm.

The Bird’s Nest Lob
The Situation: The ball is resting deep in heavy grass, giving it the look of a bird’s egg tucked in a nest. The flagstick is located just on the green, with a small bunker located between the green and the ball. We need to get a lofted clubface under the ball, but prevent the club from getting stuck in the grass and dumping the ball into the sand.

Club Selection: Choose the most lofted club possible with as much bounce as possible to prevent the club from getting stuck in the grass. The sole of a club with a lot of bounce acts much like the hull of a boat. Clubs with a lot of bounce displace a lot of soil, as an ocean liner moving at full steam will displace water. Since we need to move a great deal of grass to get to the ball, choose the club with the most bounce: the sand wedge.

Bird's Nest LobThe Setup: Open the clubface to increase the loft, but do so without changing the club’s position in your hands; you’ll need the power of your wrists for the shot. To accommodate for the opening of the clubface, slightly adjust your stance to the left. Widen it significantly to lower your body, thus making it easier for the club to get under the ball.

The Motion: The visual to embrace here is to blast the entire bird’s nest onto the putting surface without breaking the egg. We need to make a big swing to move the nest, since it’s much heavier than the ball alone. Create more length, while still getting the club low enough, by cocking your wrists more than normal on the backswing. This should happen in addition to your arm swing, not instead of an arm swing.

On the downswing, strike down with a hammering motion behind the ball while your body turns to eventually face the target. It isn’t necessary to focus on the ball, just picture sliding the club under the entire bird’s nest. Finally, make sure to be aggressive through the ball to a good finish.

The Standard Pitch
The Situation: A clean lie from the fairway or light rough with the hole cut on the opposite side of the green. In between the ball and the hole is a large bunker that must be carried before the ball lands on the green. Crisp contact and good distance control are of paramount importance here.

Club Selection: Choose a pitching wedge because it has enough loft to get the ball in the air, but will still allow the ball to roll across the green to the hole. Also, the pitching wedge has little or no bounce, meaning the leading edge of the clubface is level to the trailing edge. This will help prevent the club from hitting the ground early and bouncing up into the middle of the ball.

The Setup: Assume a setup similar to your full swing stance. Your primary objective is to create a slightly descending blow through the back of the ball. Narrow your stance slightly in order to make your body taller and help prevent contacting the ground before the ball. Place the ball in the middle of your stance with your weight anchored more on your left side. This also helps to prevent striking the ground before the ball.

The Motion:
The primary swing key for this shot (as well as for each of the other shots) is to create positive momentum through the ball that allows the clubface to loft the ball over any obstacle. Focus on keeping your arms accelerating through the ball. This acceleration will occur best with minimal hand/wrist motion. Concentrate on keeping your hands and wrists soft and supple, not tight and active.

A great thought to ensure proper acceleration is to think about finishing the swing fully, rather than concentrating on hitting the ball. Try to get to a balanced finish position with the shaft vertical, in front of your body, and all of your weight on your left foot. Whenever I make a good pitch shot, I can tap the toe of my right foot on the ground twice.


Butterfly LobThe Butterfly Lob
The Situation: The ball lies on tight grass in the fairway. The green is elevated and the flagstick is cut close to the edge of the green. We’re trying to hit the highest, softest shot possible without skulling the ball over the green. Ideally, we want this shot to land as softly as a butterfly on the green and roll a very minimal distance.

Club Selection: Choose a 60- to 64-degree lob wedge. A lob wedge has more loft and a smaller degree of bounce, while a sand wedge has less loft and a larger degree of bounce. Having less bounce will help prevent the club from bouncing into the middle of the ball and sending it violently past the green.

The Setup: Since we want a very high shot, we need to create more loft. Start with the club in front of your eyes and your normal left-hand grip. Turn your left hand under the shaft a quarter-turn and re-grip the club. This should place the club more in the palm of the hand. Now, turn your left hand back to its original position, thus opening the clubface. This weaker grip helps to add more loft to the clubface while preventing excessive hand/wrist motion during the swing. Adjust for the open clubface by aligning your body to the left of the target. Widen your stance a touch and position the ball forward of center.

The Motion: A good motion must be made for the club to work with these adjustments. The first goal is to let the club slide behind and under the ball. Visualize the ball sitting on the center of a dollar bill. You should swing so that the club enters the grass before the dollar and exits after the dollar, thus splashing Mr. Washington onto the putting surface with the ball. Remember to take a shallow divot, not a full stack of dollar bills. As long as you slide the clubhead under the ball and keep the clubhead accelerating, the design of the club and your setup changes will produce a high, soft shot.

The second goal is to swing with an even rhythm and even-length strokes. Imagine yourself standing like Mickey Mouse in a watch face. If you swing your arms back to 9:00, make sure that you allow them to swing through to at least 3:00, or 10:00 to 2:00, etc.

Trust your club to do the work, give it a good chance with the proper changes at address, and splash the dollar bill onto the green with a smooth, even rhythm. When you do, you’ll see those shots float up like a butterfly without stinging like a bee.

Explosion PitchThe Explosion Pitch
The Situation: The ball rests in medium to heavy rough, a bunker lies between the ball and the green, and the hole is cut on the opposite side of the putting surface. Our main concern is getting the club to move through the heavy grass. Since there’s plenty of green with which to work, extreme loft isn’t a concern. However, we must get the ball up in the air fast enough to avoid getting stuck in the rough.

Club Selection: The best club for this shot is a sand wedge. We need the lofted clubface to give the ball lift and we need the bounce to help the club move smoothly through the thick grass.

The Setup: Keep the clubface square and align your body parallel to the target line. To create a descending blow into the back of the ball, create a steeper swing plane. The easiest way to do this is to stand a bit closer to the ball, thus raising your hands slightly from normal. This creates a feeling that the toe of the club is lower than the heel of the club at address, which should lead to a more vertical swing path.

The last setup adjustment is to turn your grip a bit more on top of the club to allow for a better wrist cock. Also, firm up your grip pressure to prevent the club from twisting in the long grass. Be careful: When you tighten your grip, don’t allow tension to creep into your shoulders.

The Motion: Since the rough offers more resistance to the better lie of the Standard Pitch, you need to generate more clubhead speed to make the ball travel the same distance. The easiest way to increase speed without changing your entire motion is to adjust the length of the backswing while striving to keep the same tempo and a full finish. Out of the heavy rough, it’s acceptable to cock your wrists on the backswing to gain length in the swing and utilize another lever in your hands and arms.

Be aggressive through impact, as the grass will work to slow down the club. Swinging to the target and a full finish are your priorities.

PGA professional Steve Mitchell is the Director of Instruction at famed Kiawah Island Resort, located on Kiawah Island, S.C.

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