October 17, 2026

Short Game

Better ChippingChipping and putting are two areas of the game where everyone can improve. Improve your chipping and putting, and you’ll significantly reduce your handicap. The touring pros spend more time practicing their short games than all of their other shots combined. How many weekend golfers can say the same?

The most important aspect of chipping is to make sure that your lead wrist doesn’t break down during the chipping motion. The moment your wrist breaks down, two things happen: The loft of the club changes, which alters the trajectory and the roll (inconsistent distances will result); and your arm also breaks down, which can result in bladed shots that go screaming across the green.

To ensure that neither of these things happen, work on keeping your arm straight and your wrist firm during the shot. If you’re having difficulties, place a rubber band around your lead wrist and slide the butt end of the club under it, holding the club close to your wrist. This will give you the correct feel when chipping the ball.

Golf instructor Mel Sole heads the Phil Ritson Golf School at Pawleys Plantation Golf & Country Club in Myrtle Beach, S.C.

Turn Three Shots into Two Whether your skills are strictly amateur or allow you to keep pace with any single-digit handicapper, you’ll never reach your true potential as a golfer unless you learn one of the game’s great tricks: turning three shots into two around the greens. In other words, you must find a way to become a scorer. Scoring is what separates the better players you know from everybody else. Taken to a higher analogy, it’s what separates the likes of Tiger Woods, Phil Mickelson and Vijay Singh from the rest of the players on the PGA Tour.

Furthermore, it’s what will ultimately help you reach your potential as a golfer. Isn’t that what this great game is all about—the number in the scorecard beside your name? To go from an average golfer to a scoring machine, use the following greenside plays. Perfect these shots and you’ll be well on your way to joining the ranks of the scoring elite.

Every golfer is bound to miss a green or two (or three or nine) during the course of a round, which always presents a challenge to your scoring ability. Regardless of your driving and long-iron skills, if you can’t get the ball close to the cup (and sometimes in it) when you do miss a green, your scores are going to skyrocket like a popped-up lob wedge. However, if you can make the most of a green missed, you’ll keep bogeys at bay and maybe produce a few birdies, and that’s when scores really begin to plummet. The key to turning three shots into two is assessing the lie and selecting the right shot. For most situations, the High Softie, Mid Trickler or Low Runner should do the trick.

High SoftieThe High Softie
A tilt of the shoulders (so the right sits higher than the left) and a neutral shaft position help create the extra loft the High Softie requires. However, don’t make the mistake of trying to lift the ball into the air. Your setup and the loft of the club will take care of that. Like you should on every short shot, hit down and through.

When you’re faced with the daunting situation of having to chip to a hole cut very close to the fringe, opt for the High Softie. Unlike the other two chips we’ll discuss in this story, the High Softie presents a good amount of risk and quite a bit of challenge. But from the rough, you should be able to enjoy consistent success. (If the lie is tight, go ahead and use your putter.) The High Softie helps the ball land like a potato chip on a lake. It’s a great scoring play when there’s little room between you and the pin.

To execute the High Softie, position the ball more forward in your stance. More important, tilt your right shoulder lower than the left. This will effectively add loft to the shot and help it fly higher than normal.

As you tilt your shoulders, be careful not to lean the shaft away from the target. The clubshaft should lie perpendicular to the ground. The vertical shaft position allows you to make maximum use of the bounce of your wedge (the rear portion of the sole that helps the club to skid, rather than dig, when it hits the ground). This effectively lessens the chance of mis-hits and increases the loft on the club and shot.


Mid-TricklerThe Mid-Trickler
The Mid-Trickler is the best option when you’ve only got a small amount of green with which to work (20 feet or less), yet significantly more room than the situation best-suited for the High Softie. The Mid-Trickler also requires a reasonable lie, one where there’s some grass under the ball (beware tight lies and hardpan). Like the Low Runner shot we’ll discuss next, the Mid-Trickler is a low-risk play. Nevertheless, it requires practice in order to catch the ball just right. Effectively played, expect the Mid-Trickler to produce a shot where the ball hops once, checks up and then trickles toward the hole.

Set up with the ball positioned more toward the center of your stance and your shoulders level. This setup encourages a fairly neutral shaft lean, which will allow you to make contact with the ball using the true loft of the golf club.

Distance Control
In order to consistently get the ball close to the hole from short range, it’s crucial that you don’t add or subtract loft from the clubface, which automatically reduces or increases the distance of the shot, respectively. A slight forward lean of the shaft and level shoulders at address best allows you to maintain the true loft of the club.

Low RunnerThe Low Runner
The Low Runner is the preferred play when there’s plenty of green between you and the flagstick—say, over 20 feet or so. You can play this shot from nearly any type of lie, particularly a tight lie, when there’s not much grass under the ball. There’s very little risk involved and you should expect the ball to skid, check up and then run toward the hole. It’s a shot that would make your Scottish ancestors proud. Even better, it takes advantage of one of golf’s key truths: It’s easier to control distance when the ball’s in the ground than when it’s in the air.

To play the Low Runner, move the ball back in your stance and tilt your left shoulder lower than the right. This will ensure the correct shaft lean (toward the target) that you need to reduce the loft on your club and help you use the leading edge to pinch the ball crisply.

Tilted
In order to keep the ball low (and this is true for any low shot, not just the chipping play we’re discussing here), the shaft must lean forward at address. This creates a more shallow impact and keeps the golf ball from climbing up the face and launching high. Of course, if you simply forward-pressed your hands from your standard chipping address position, you’d run into a myriad of swing problems. The trick is to set the lean by tilting your right shoulder lower than your left. This automatically sets the forward shaft lean. It also encourages a forward displacement of weight, which should also aid your technique.

Its All In The Lean
Hopefully, you understand that the key to executing these shots requires the correct shaft and spine lean at address. Leaning the shaft and spine away from the target controls the height of your shots, and it’s the height associated with each that makes such an invaluable play. Practice these three shots, learn when to use them and become a scorer!


PGA teaching professional and Senior Instruction Editor Chuck Winstead is the director of instruction at The University Club in Baton Rouge, La.

The Mental Art Of Scoring: Forget The Score
By David F. Wright, Ph.D., PGA

Golf truly is a unique game. There are no plays to run. No offense or defense. No time-outs. Worse yet, there’s no real recovery from a bad play. You have to live with your mistakes, which makes how well you deal with them the key to playing well.

An important lesson from which every golfer can benefit is to always play in the present and avoid the tendency to get too far ahead of oneself. Most golfers tend to make these mistakes when it comes to keeping score. How many times have you set a target score to shoot, only to find that as you got closer to that number, the round became increasingly difficult? Truth is, monitoring your score and calculating what score you’re on track to shoot is a recipe for disaster. It takes you out of the present and into the future which, in golf, is a difficult means to playing well. Golf requires complete concentration on the shot at hand. Any future thinking will limit your ability to fully perform in the present.

Try something new the next time you play a round. Before you tee off, inform your playing partners that you don’t want to know where you stand during the day’s round (forget their comments—your goal is to improve, not to please your buddies). Announce your hole totals, but do your best from tabulating a running score. If you’re tempted to look at your scorecard, take a deep breath, slow down your movements and shift your thoughts to the conditions of the shot before you. By not focusing so much on score, you’ll find it a lot easier to take your mind off future thoughts and redirect them to the present. After the round, don’t be surprised to learn that your total is lower than you may have thought!

PGA professional Dr. David F. Wright operates the Wright Balance Golf School (www.wrightbalance.com). He’s recognized as one of the top 100 instructors in America and is an assistant coach for the University of Southern California men’s and women’s golf teams.

 

Its Not Your Fault The game of golf is full of excuses. Whether it’s an excuse for a bad shot, a bad pair of slacks or the dreaded excuse for a late or missed tee time, golf is littered with blame. Rarely, however, does a golfer blame himself or herself for a poorly hit shot. It could have been a distraction, a bad lie, a miscalculated yardage or my favorite—an unexpected 40 mph gust of wind. In any case, and despite the plethora of excuses for what seems like everything in golf, if you want to get better at actually playing golf, you must check your ego at the door.

Flubbed Bunker Shots
What you see on the PGA Tour doesn’t work for everyone. Often, golfers exaggerate what they see on TV and open the clubface too much at address. Also, the camera plays tricks on the eye. It may look like players are aiming wide left, but in actuality, they’re aiming just slightly left. The truth is, the more you open the clubface, the smaller your window becomes for a successful result.

The Fix
Use a stronger grip and move with your hands slightly ahead of the ball. Set up so the ball is in the center of your stance and aim your body slightly to the left. Do the same with the clubface in the opposite direction. The key is instead of exaggerating an open clubface, open it slightly to the right—just about as much as the body is to the left. (The left rod is my body line, and the middle rod is the direction of the clubface; my intended target is between the two.) As you swing, do so along your body line (left rod) and concentrate on hitting two inches behind the ball. The bounce of the sand wedge will determine how much sand you’ll catch between the ball and clubface, so remember to hold the face slightly open through impact and accelerate through the ball. Don’t scoop—let the club do the work.

Flubbed Bunker Shots The  Thought  
Golfers often err by flipping the hands over through the sand, usually resulting in a poorly hit bunker shot. Instead, trust your ability and the design of your sand wedge. The bounce is designed to allow for just the right amount of sand to lift the ball, but to take advantage of it, you have to hit down on the sand! I know, it seems counterintuitive to have to hit down and hard on the sand to lift the ball high and softly. But in the bunker, that’s how to get it done.  

 Equipfix: Bounce Angles
By Ryan Noll
When was the last time you considered the bounce angle of your wedges? Truth is, there’s a lot more to low, mid and high bounce angles than meets the eye. Bounce angle refers to the slope from the rear of the sole to the front, with respect to a flat surface and a vertical shaft angle. Typically, if you’re a player who tends to hit fat wedge shots or if you have trouble getting the ball out from the bunker, a high-bounce wedge model will work far better for you than a low- or mid-bounce wedge. Reason being, more bounce means just that! The club will resist digging into the turf or sand and effectively “bounce” off the surface for a crisper shot due to the lower rear end of the sole and the higher leading edge.

Conversely, if you’re a player who plays golf on very firm conditions or if you struggle more with thin shots and/or if you’re an advanced player, a low-bounce sand wedge will likely produce better results. Low-bounce wedges have less angle between the rear and front of the sole, thus they’re beneficial for players seeking a more descending angle of attack.

For the undetermined, there’s always the mid-level bounce angles that prove to be versatile options for all skill levels and all playing conditions. To help decide which wedge may be best for you, don’t miss the 2007 Golf Equipment Buyer’s Guide, with a full round-up of today’s hottest wedges and the technology that drives golf’s most intricate scoring club.


WoodsTopped Fairway Woods
There’s more than a few ways to top a fairway wood shot, but the most common fault is the result of what I call a “missed radius.” The radius is the straight line formed by the left arm and clubshaft. When this radius isn’t fully extended at impact, the body will lead the arms into a late-hitting position, and unless you’re Tiger Woods, the average player can’t release his or her arms fast enough to make solid contact.

The Fix
To fix a broken radius, stop listening to what TV commentators have to say! While the ideal downswing features considerable lag for a whip-through effect at impact, the average player doesn’t swing fast enough to garner such an effect. Instead of holding the angle formed by the arms and clubshaft through the downswing, the means to eliminating the missed radius fault is to release the hands and arms earlier than usual. This will prevent the topped shot and help golfers with average to slow swing speeds make better contact.

The Thought
To make a full extension through impact, imagine casting a fishing line toward the ground as soon as your hands reach hip high on the downswing. Use a weaker grip as well.

Pulled Iron Shots Pulled Iron Shots  
A pulled shot is often the result of how golfers approach the ball. Typically, the shoulders face way left of the target at address (to the right for southpaws), the ball is too far forward, and weight tends to reside too much on the forward foot at address. The result is an outside-to-inside swing path, a deep divot and a shut clubface.

The Fix
Fixing the pull is as simple as altering the setup. Begin with a stance parallel to the target, with the hips and shoulders aligned perpendicular to the clubshaft. Maintain a ball position toward the middle region of the stance. As you swing, allow the arms to lead the backswing inside the target line. On the downswing, allow the body to turn and concentrate on keeping the right elbow tucked in through impact.

The Thought

The key to eliminating the pulled iron shot is to remember to swing from the inside of the target line to outside the target line. Try and trace this inside-out swing path on both the backswing and downswing in slow motion a few times, until you’re in the right position at impact. As you can see at left, my hips have already cleared, and the arrow indicates I’ve swung from the inside of the target line to outside the line. From here, allow the club to release and square through impact as you turn toward the target.

Equipfix: Lie Detector
By Mike Chwasky
If you’ve ever purchased a pair of slacks off the rack, you know that one size doesn’t necessarily fit all. In fact, if you want your clothes to look and feel right, it’s important to employ a decent tailor once in a while to nip here and tuck there. The same thing can be said for golf clubs, particularly if you don’t fit into the “average” category of height and build. Of course, nobody really fits into this group, not exactly anyway, so basically all golfers need to consider fitting their clubs to both their body and swing.

One of the most critical aspects of clubfitting in regard to iron play is lie angle (the angle formed between the hosel of the club and the ground). This angle, as the name suggests, refers to the way in which the sole of the club lies on the ground in the address position. This is called the static lie angle. The dynamic lie angle refers to how the sole of the club meets the ground during the swing, which in reality, is what really matters.


If the dynamic lie angle of an iron is too upright, meaning the toe of the club is higher than the heel through impact, the heel of the club will meet the turf first and twist the club closed. The result is pulls and hooks. In contrast, if the lie angle of an iron is too flat, meaning the heel of the club is higher than the toe through impact, the toe of the club will meet the turf first, opening the clubface and causing pushes and slices. A properly fit lie angle will cause the sole of the club to meet the ground flush, creating shallow, rectangular divots.

Poor Control Poor Control
Golfers who struggle with distance control usually err because they just don’t know what clubs work best for certain shots. Sure, we’d all love to chip like Phil Mickelson or Jim Furyk, but their one-club-for-all system isn’t ideal for the average player.

The Fix
Change the club, not the swing! Whether chipping with a 5-iron, pitching wedge or even a fairway wood, using the same stroke is a quick means for developing consistency around the greens. First, address the ball with the ball centered or slightly back (it’s better to err too far back than too far forward), hands pressed slightly forward and weight evenly distributed over both feet. Swing the club back with little to no wrist cock and accelerate through the ball. The key is to experiment with a variety of clubs and see how far and how much roll each provides. Taking guesswork out of the swing is a lot more effective than taking the guesswork out of choosing the right club.

The Thought

Try chipping in the same manner as you putt. Use your putting grip, stance and the same pre-shot routine. With practice, you’ll develop a more consistent stroke, and for varying shots, all you have to do is change your club. Just take the time to practice and get a feel for distance and roll with all your odd-numbered clubs, from your 5-iron up through your sand wedge.

Equiptip: Get A Grip

By Mike Chwasky
Grips are oft-overlooked golf club components that can and do have a significant effect on club performance. After all, the grip is the golfer’s only physical connection to the club, and one that shouldn’t be taken lightly. If a grip is too big, for example, it can significantly impede the ability to release the clubhead, which can cause slicing and a lack of power. At the same time, grips that are too small often tend to promote more hand action through the swing and a tendency to release the club too soon, causing hooks and generally poor contact. To avoid these problems, check in with your local golf professional or trusty repair shop at least once a year, and replace your grips with new ones that fit both your hands and your sense of feel.

Fat And Thin Iron Shots Fat And Thin Iron Shots
Although fat and thin shots produce very different results, they tend to be caused by the same fault—a swing that’s routed too much from the inside out. And while a swing that moves from inside the target line to outside the target line is desirable, if it’s overdone, you’ll have difficulty hitting solid shots. The best means to fixing the thin and fat shots is a matter of making adjustments to the setup and paying careful attention to not taking the club back too much to the inside on the takeaway.

The Fix
Make sure the ball is centered or even slightly forward. Your weight should be positioned evenly over both feet. As you initiate the backswing, remember to take the club back along the target line and not to the inside of the target line. Let the upper body trigger the backswing and once the club reaches knee high, allow the body to begin turning away. As you reach the top of your backswing, the key is to be sure you allow your arms to initiate the downswing as your body begins turning toward the target. If your arms are late and your body is turning before your hands have time to drop, you’ll get “stuck” behind the ball and come too much from the inside, hence the fat or thinned shot to the right. Concentrate on getting your arms down and your hips cleared in that order on the downswing and you’ll start seeing quick results.
   
The Thought
Stay connected. In a great golf swing, very few parts of the body function independently; rather, the golf swing requires a series of movements that happen simultaneously. Although I’m suggesting an arms-first backswing and arms-first downswing, the reality is both movements are triggers that initiate the beginning of a series of chain reactions for the body to follow.


PitchesFlubbed Pitches
The flubbed pitch shot is often the result of two things: 1) a ball positioned too far forward; or 2) a decelerating downswing. When the ball is too far forward, the club bottoms out behind the ball on the downswing, resulting in a fat, powerless shot. With a decelerating blow, the body outraces the hands and the downswing becomes excessively steep.

The Fix
On the backswing, the shoulders and arms should turn away at the same time, as opposed to letting the arms get out ahead of the body. Most importantly, one must remember that the length of the backswing and forwardswing should mirror each other. However far you take the club back should determine the length of your swing postimpact. The difference? The downswing always should be faster than the backswing. Also, keep your weight toward the forward foot at address.

The Thought
Atop the backswing, the key to solid contact is to begin turning the body toward the target while the arms drop downward. Stay loose, too.

Equipfix: Bridge The Gap
By Mike Chwasky
Wedges are arguably the most important scoring tools in the bag, yet a large percentage of golfers don’t have a properly gapped set of wedges in their bag. The simple cause of this problem is that over the past 10 years or so, iron lofts have grown stronger, yet wedge lofts have stayed about the same.

So what was once an eight-degree gap between a 48-degree pitching wedge and 56-degree sand wedge is now 10 degrees due to the modern 46-degree pitching wedge. The result is a huge distance gap in the set, and a lot of tricky, in-between yardages. To fill this gap, most golfers would do well to put a fourth wedge, or gap wedge, into their set. This wedge should feature a loft that’s comfortably between the pitching wedge and sand wedge (generally between 5Beat The Chunked Fairway Bunker Shot0 and 52 degrees).

Beat The Chunked Fairway Bunker Shot
Don’t worry about the fairway bunker shot, especially if you have a decent lie. There’s a good chance you can still reach the green or at least get it close.

The Fix
Because golfers assume they need more club to get out of the bunker, they often sacrifice the loft that’s needed to get the ball out. Wrong! You need to add loft! Take a higher-lofted club and address the ball with an aggressive, hands-forward stance. As you make a smooth and easy swing, keep your weight centered, as opposed to letting your weight shift during the swing. This will help ensure the needed downward blow.

The Thought
To play this shot effectively, imagine playing a shot into a stiff breeze. “When it’s breezy, swing easy” and don’t try to muscle the ball out!

Craig Bunker is a longtime teaching instructor and oversees the John Jacobs Golf Schools located throughout the U.S. For more info, visit www.jacobsgolf.com and find a learning center near you.

A Lifetime of Lessons: Chip ShotsSome Good Advice: Brick Your Chips
The most important thing you can do to improve your chipping game is to know your distances precisely. Here’s a drill that can help. Find an area where you can pace off 30, 60 and 90 yards. Then place a small builder’s brick at each distance. Hit pitch shots at the 30-yard brick until you land one on it. You’ll get a great thrill from seeing the ball bounce way up in the air, and you should start to develop confidence and an aggressive attitude when you begin to hit such a small target with regularity. After you hit the brick from 30 yards, go for 60 then 90 yards.

Editor’s Note: Since 1997, Golf Tips has featured one of the game’s great teaching personalities, Marshall Smith. The proud Oklahoman has made his instruction home on practice ranges from coast to coast and on every level of the pro circuits. Marshall’s newest book, A Lifetime of Lessons (Triumph Books), spills forth over 50 years of teaching expertise and his unique take on the way the game is meant to be played.

     
A good chip-shot player is usually a good lag putter as well. That’s because he or she understands how to use the speed, slope and grain of the green to his or her advantage. You should start any short-game practice by getting a feel for the greens you’ll be playing that day. Spend a few minutes on the putting green before you move over to the pitching and chipping area. The idea is to get a feel for how the ball will behave when it’s rolling on the ground. A small investment in learning the tendencies of the greens will pay off many times over.

Know the geography. Is there a geographical feature that affects the ball consistently? In the mountains, the ball will often tend to break away along a certain ridge. On seaside courses, it will move toward the ocean. My friends on the tour always make a mental note of how the land drains and use it to their advantage.

Know the grain of the green. This is particularly important on Bermuda grass, but it’s a factor on every course. Go to the center of the putting green and roll several balls toward the fringe in each direction. See how the different putts behave, and note the effect of the grain on each one. If you ever have the opportunity to watch a PGA Tour event practice round, you’ll see the players doing exactly that on each green.

Know your set makeup. As far as shot selection is concerned, the most important thing is not to get fancy. Don’t try a highlight-film flop shot when a nice little chip would do the job just as well. Use club selection to help with this. The basic idea is to use the chip technique for any shot. If you need to hit it higher, take a sand wedge or a lob wedge. You’ll naturally get more loft without having to make major adjustments to your stroke. For more roll, opt for a less-lofted iron. Sometimes it’s easier to roll a ball up onto the green than it is to fly it onto a ledge. Work backward from your target area, and go with the shot that makes the most sense.

My Chip Shot Technique
Of all the shots in golf, chip shots are my favorite. I’ve literally spent years of my life chipping—in the backyard, with my kids, against friends at the club in friendly competitions, and alone around the practice green with the setting sun as my only companion. Chips are funny—they’re not full swings, but they’re not putts, either. They’re kind of a blend and, therefore, require a special technique. Here’s what I focus on.

I try to settle into a relaxed address position, just slightly opening my stance by pulling back my left foot. I play the ball back with my hands forward-pressed. This assures that I make a nice “pop” on the ball. Scooping need not apply when it’s time to chip.

To take away the club, I use my hands and never—ever—move my hands above my knee. The clubhead should remain low to the ground until a slight—slight—hinge of the wrists brings the club up.

Before I change direction, I ease up on my hold of the club just a bit. The sensation I want to create is that my hands lead the club back to the ball, but they don’t dominate to the point where they overtake it. The last thing you want in a chip is for the hands to get “wristy” and sling the club into the back of the golf ball. Rather, the hands should lead the club into impact just as they do in a full swing, with the shaft and left forearm properly aligned at the point of contact.


Common FlawsAlthough the hands control the chip motion, it’s imperative that you allow your body to rotate with the club as you hit through the ball (right). If you don’t open up to the target through impact, the club will come into the ball on an ascending path. Ouch. Even in a short swing such as this, your entire body must work in harmony.

Of course, you’ll need practice to judge just how long a stroke to make in order to chip the ball different distances.

2 Common Flaws
When chipping, avoid these two flaws and you’ll be well on your way to a great up-and-down. One: Restrict your backswing. The chip shot requires a short backstroke. When you get to the point where you must take your hands past your right knee, move to a less-lofted club and shorten the stroke. Two: Don’t ease into the ball. Although the swing is short, it’s still a swing and demands acceleration. If you stop at the ball, you’re likely to hit the ball fat or have the club race past your hands. Make a fairly long followthrough (at least longer than your backswing).

Walk It Off
You’d be surprised how many golfers—even tour players—can’t correctly judge shot lengths. Today’s golfers are very flagstick oriented, and they rely too much on GPS devices and whatnot to give them their distances. I played a lot of football in my day, so I know how far 20, 30 and 45 yards is. More important, I know what these distances look like. So should you; otherwise you’ll never become an expert at hitting to specific targets. Get in the practice of walking off all of your short-yardage attempts, even on the range. You’ll be surprised at how quickly your eyes will learn.

Hit Down And Through Hit Down And Through
In a regular full swing, the speed at which the club moves negates the danger of the club stopping or slowing when it hits the turf. During a chip, however, the club’s involvement with the ground must be considered because the club moves at such a slow rate or speed. Poor contact, especially when the club makes contact with the ground before it strikes the golf ball, can spell disaster.

The key is to hit down and through. You don’t need to take any sort of divot whatsoever with a chip, but it’s still very important that you strike the ball with a slightly descending blow. That’s where that audible click comes from. If you can never produce that click when chipping, you’re probably playing the ball too far forward. On all chips, position the ball so that it rests just before the bottom part of your stroke. You can find the bottom part of your stroke by simply brushing the grass. Assume your standard chipping setup and move the club back and forth in a continuous chipping motion. As you do this, check the ground and take note where the clubhead brushes against the turf in relation to your stance. This is where you need to position the ball to ensure clean contact.

50-Year Tip: Use The Ground
When you really get down to it, there are only three choices when it comes to getting the ball close to the hole from a short distance—a chip, a pitch or a lob. I advise my students, from bogey golfers to tour players, to keep the ball low to the ground whenever possible. The sooner you can get the ball rolling on the green, the sooner you’re on a predictable surface that will accommodate a less-than-perfect shot. Now, that’s keeping things simple and, in my opinion, is the key to a lifetime of consistent, great golf.

The Book

A Lifetime of Lessons (Triumph Books) is a 164-page manual to all that’s required to play the game of golf well. It contains over 50 years of lessons developed by one of the game’s great teachers, including the less-mechanical techniques to becoming a complete and courteous golfer. 

Marshall Smith has taught the game of golf for over a half century. His former students include Chi Chi Rodriguez, Gary Player, Craig Stadler and current PGA Tour player Todd Fischer. Marshall teaches at Peoria Ridge GC in Miami, Okla.

Bunker Magic Bunkers are the only place on the golf course where you’re not always required to hit it perfectly. It’s okay—even encouraged—that you sometimes hit it fat, hold the face open through impact and minimize your weight shift and rotation. So why, then, are golfers terrified of what seemingly should be one of golf’s easier shots? Astonishingly, the top player on the PGA Tour through 20 rounds of golf this year—Luke Donald—has nearly a 90 percent success rate from the sand. There’s no reason you can’t be at least half that good.

I’ve concluded that it’s not the sand that’s the problem; rather most golfers just don’t understand the basic principles behind how the ball is going to react in a bunker. Will the ball pop out with a high or low trajectory? Will it roll on the green or check up and stop? Do I have to swing hard or soft? These are the kinds of questions I hear most from golfers who haven’t a clue on what to expect, how to swing and what club to use from the sand.
     
The first step to taking the guesswork out of bunkers is to first and always analyze the situation and then decide what club to use and what shot you need to execute. Most amateurs do those steps in the exact reverse. They grab their sand wedge, address the ball and then decide what needs to be done. Sound familiar? If so, we need to change your routine.

Let’s take a look at four different bunker shots with four different clubs, each designed to produce a different result from a different situation. Pay attention to what situation directs what kind of shot to hit, as opposed to allowing your shot to dictate your situation.

putter2.jpg Putt It Out
Sometimes the best way to get out of a bunker is to not hit the ball at all. Try putting it instead. Like all shots from the bunker, you must first assess the situation and determine if the putter is the right choice.

Using a putter (the good ol’ Texas wedge) to escape a greenside bunker should only be attempted if the sand in the bunker is firm, the lie is decent (not buried) and the bunker itself doesn’t feature a lip, or if it does, a very small lip with a rounded edge. If you try this shot without each of these conditions being met, be ready to hit two shots from the same place.

Middle Iron From your clean lie, address the ball as you normally would with a putter on the green, with your weight centered over both feet and with your standard putting grip. Play the ball back in your stance, which will help prevent touching the sand through impact. In this situation, unlike other bunker shots, the key is to catch all ball and no sand, so plan on striking the upper hemisphere of the golf ball with the putterface. Expect the ball to roll much like it would on the green and then pop over the lip. Because you’ll be hitting all ball and no sand, and the ball may pop up when it hits the lip, don’t be afraid to hit this shot harder than you would a normal putt from this distance. The off-center strike and spin from the hop will reduce the speed of the ball, so give it a good hit. With a little practice, you’ll find that this shot reigns supreme and nearly takes out all the guesswork from low-lipped bunker shots.

Eight Iron Middle Iron
If you find yourself in a bunker with a medium-sized lip, in firm to medium sand with some green to work with, this shot is an absolute lifesaver. There are three reasons why I prefer this shot to a standard bunker blast from this position: 1) It gets the ball rolling on the ground quicker than does the play with a sand wedge, and it’s always easier to control distance and accuracy when the ball is on the ground than when it’s in the air; 2) It’s more difficult to know exactly how far to fly the ball to get it close to the pin than it is to simply get it moving along the putting surface; 3) It does not require sand-first contact—a tricky play for most high-handicappers.


With your 7- or 8-iron (depending on what trajectory you prefer), address the ball with your weight and hands forward, but with the ball positioned in the middle-back region of your stance. Your feet should align slightly open of your intended target, with the clubface facing the target and your shoulders parallel to the target line. To get a feel for the proper position, think of the stance and swing you’d used for a greenside chip. Choke down on the iron, and with a descending blow, hit down onto the ball. Notice how my body is quiet and most of the motion is in my arms. Unlike a typical sand blast, in this case, you want to hit the ball first, and the sand second. The ball will come off the face low and with roll, so make sure you have some green to work with. Think of the 1⁄3-2⁄3 rule: the ball will carry 1⁄3 and roll 2⁄3 of the way toward the hole. Another great thing about this shot is it’s an effective way to control trajectory and distance from those hard-to-play fairway bunkers within 100 yards.

PWPW Shot Pitching Wedge Pick-And-Chop
On occasion, you’re going to encounter a shot that’s either sunken or semi-buried in the sand. Despite what you may think, this shot isn’t as difficult as it looks. The key is using the right club for the job, which in this case is the pitching wedge.

The pitching wedge, like a sand wedge, has plenty of loft, but more importantly, pitching wedges have lower bounce angles than sand wedges. What this means is the pitching wedge is more effective at digging into the sand, which is critical for playing from sunken lies. Address the ball with your feet slightly open and the ball in the back of your stance, with a stronger than usual grip. Make sure your hands are forward and the clubface is square or even slightly open to the target. The key here is to minimize body turn and make a steep, descending blow into the sand precisely where the ball and sand come into contact. I like to call this the pick-and-chop shot. Be sure to take the club back more upright than usual and descend into the ball with no followthrough. The club should stick into the ground, and the ball should lift out of the sand with plenty of height. Unlike a regular sand shot, this shot will produce some roll. Notice how my body remains relatively quiet, and my arms do most of the work.

Equip Tip: Sand Savers
The industry has recently unleashed several models made specifically to erase the difficulty of extricating the ball from a bunker. The Hogan Sure-Out is a modern iteration of The Hawk’s famed specialty club. Nowhere near as traditional is the F2 wedge, engineered with an onset hosel to encourage sand-first contact. MacGregor’s V-FOIL EZ-OUT features an oversized back structure to help the club glide through the sand. The crescent-cut sole on the innovative Solus wedge allows the golfer to add or remove bounce as needed.

SWSW Shot Traditional Sand Wedge
Whether you have a good lie or a bad lie, the traditional sand blast is an effective shot when you haven’t much green to work with or you’re faced with a huge lip between your ball and the hole. Begin by choosing either a 56- or 60-degree wedge, and address the ball with your body aligned to the left and the clubface aimed to the right. If you aim your body 20 degrees left of the target, then be sure to open the clubface 20 degrees to the right of the target.

When playing the traditional bunker blast, make an effort to swing along your body line—not the target line (remember, your body is open to the target). When you do this, you’ll find yourself taking the club back on an outside-in club path, which is ideal for helping you keep the clubface open through impact. In this shot, there’s no release or flipping of the hands. Hold the face open as long as possible, and be sure your right hand remains under your left (for right-handers). Remember to open the clubface when you take your grip. Don’t grip the club and twist your hands to open the face—that’s a big no-no. Unlike the aforementioned bunker shots, in this case, you want to make contact an inch or two behind the ball, with a full followthrough. To negotiate different distances, simply adjust the degree your body and face angle are from the target. On closer shots, address the ball more openly. On longer bunker shots, address more squarely to the target. With this shot, you’ll generate some spin, so expect the ball to fly most of the way, hop and skid to a stop.

Playing from the bunkers requires an open and creative mind. But to really become proficient, like everything else in golf, solid bunker play requires solid practice time. Experiment with these shots and concentrate on how the ball reacts to these four different approaches. In no time, you’ll find yourself more confident in knowing exactly what to do.

Craig Bunker, PGA, is director of instruction for the John Jacobs’ Golf Schools, now with more than 30 locations nationwide. For more info, visit www.jacobsgolf.com.

Greenside MagicIf you think back to your last good round of golf, odds are you’ll envision a number of solid drives and approach shots. We bet you’ll also remember making a few excellent par saves or maybe draining a birdie putt or two you normally would have no business making. And if you recount your last poor round of golf, it’s likely you’ll conjure images of errant drives and sloppy iron shots, combined with recovery attempts that failed to get you on the green and into the hole. For low scores, the short game is key. Deft pitching, chipping, bunker play and putting are necessary ingredients to not only besting par, but also keeping your score level when wayward shots do arise. To help you become more of a short-game artist, we combed past issues of Golf Tips and pulled what we feel are our best greenside tips ever from our top short-game instructors. So read on and watch your scores magically drop.

#1 1. Make Error Room
Bunker shots should be right-hand dominated. Make swings with your left hand in your pocket to ingrain proper feel. Also be aware that sand shots don’t need to be perfectly struck—you only have to hit near the ball. For any bunker blast, let the club do the work. A sand wedge’s sole is designed to guide the club under the golf ball, which will send the ball up and on its way. If you aim two to three inches behind the ball, you’ll give yourself plenty of room for error.

#2 2. Thud The Sand
There’s a certain sound to a good sand shot—a thud, if you will. Compare that with a dig or a skim, which sound nothing like a good, healthy bunker blast. The thud sound is achieved only by allowing the sole portion of the clubhead to bounce aggressively into the sand and accelerate through. You can’t make a thud if you try to sweep or pick the ball.

#3 3. Pop It In
For improved putting, combine the features of the classic pop stroke and the modern shoulder stroke. Grip the putter with your left index finger resting atop the fingers of your right hand. Use your left index finger to begin the stroke, allowing your right wrist to hinge (pop stroke). Move the whole system forward using your right palm as the push force (as in the piston stroke). The pop-piston stroke makes it easy to square the putterface through impact and works well on slower greens.

#4 4. Swing Upright For Height
For all bunker shots, swing away from the ball on an upright plane. This will create the leverage needed to bounce the sole into the sand and help you hit the ball higher and land softer.

#5 5. Fold The Left Elbow On The Followthrough
This may be one of the most overlooked secrets to great sand play. The left elbow must fold immediately following impact. By folding the left elbow, the clubhead will release easily through the ball and send it on a higher-than-normal trajectory, exactly what you want from tricky greenside bunkers.

Also be aware that, unlike most shots in golf, the clubface shouldn’t close on the followthrough in the sand. The feel is that you’re hitting a slice, with the clubface purposely held open for as long as possible. This helps to slide the clubface under the ball, as well as to get the ball airborne quickly.


#6 6. Triple Play
If your current grip places too much of the handle in your fingers, you’ll need to adjust it so more of the grip fits in your palms. Furthermore, you should make a second alteration to ensure that your hands function as a single unit. Try this: After placing your hands on the handle, slide the lower hand up until the pinkie, forefinger and middle finger rest atop your lead hand. This triple overlap grip effectively quiets the movement of the dominant hand (the right hand for right-handers) during the stroke. A less-active dominant side translates into better grip pressure and keeps the hands working together. In addition, placing the grip in your palms helps prevent tension and positions your thumbs on top of the grip, which will heighten your feel and control.

#7 7. Shake Hands
One of the best lessons you can learn is, In golf, you shake hands like a gentleman. Most golfers, however, high-five. In other words, they swing from low to high following impact. In all swings, especially shorter ones, hit down and through the ball so that in the postimpact position, your hands are still below your waist. For better wedge shots, follow impact by shaking hands with your target.

Putter Blast 8. Putter Blast
An awkward situation where your putter can come in handy is when the ball is buried in the face of a bunker. This lie can be almost impossible to escape from, especially with a wedge, which often forces the ball farther into the sand. But if you turn your putter counterclockwise so that the toe points toward the ball, your putter can become a valuable bunker tool. To execute this play, simply set up with the ball in the middle of your stance, and assume your normal full-swing grip. Take the club up abruptly, and come down with a limited followthrough, just as you would when hitting a punch shot. If you make contact with the sand just in back of the ball, it should come out like a normal bunker shot. Keep in mind that heel-toe-style putters work best with this technique.

#9 9. Eye Your Putts
Choosing the right line is a challenging task made difficult by optical illusions. These illusions arise when you gauge the line from your putting stance. You’ll always get a better read with the head in an upright position, not turned sideways. Always read your putts from behind the ball. Once you settle into your stance, give the line one more look, being careful not to tilt your head sideways. Keep your head up and rotate it so that your mind can redraw the line on the green.

Save Face 10. Save Face
You won’t drain many putts if you set up with an open or closed face, regardless of the quality of your stroke. For a perfectly perpendicular setup, look to the leading edge of your putter, or make use of the club’s painted sight lines or natural aiming lines. Consider these lines when shopping for a new putter. Find a putter that feels good, of course, but also one that’s easy to align. We’re all likely to try something that works well for our playing partners or our favorite Tour player. Don’t fall into that trap. Experiment and find a putter that works for you. It may be something you’d never consider owning.


#11 11. Right-To-Left Putts
On a right-to-left-breaking putt, set up with the ball slightly back (about two ball widths) in your stance and with your hands ahead of the ball so that the shaft leans forward. These adjustments will encourage a stroke that comes to the ball on a slightly inside-to-square path (right). More importantly, it minimizes the likelihood of cutting across the ball and pulling it left—the low side—of the hole.

Straight Putts 12. Straight Putts
On a straight putt, focus on keeping the puttershaft in a perfectly vertical position at setup and impact (see photo at left). This will help you utilize the putter’s loft and impart a true roll.

Left-To-Right Putts 13. Left-To-Right Putts
Position the ball forward by two ball widths and keep your hands behind the ball so that the shaft tilts slightly away from the hole. From here, it’s next to impossible to push the putt. Instead, your putter will travel along a square-to-square path.

#14 14. Choke Down
To help prevent fat chips and pitches, try the under-reach technique. Begin by assuming your address position, with your arms hanging to their natural length. Choke down on the club about an inch, and hover the club just off the ground as you get ready to execute the shot. The combination of choking the grip and hovering the club will help you guard against hitting the shot fat. When you finally make a swing, simply concentrate on contacting the bottom half of the ball.

#15 15. Pitch It Close
To keep poor chips (evidenced by the wrist breakdown at left) at bay, you need an abrupt takeaway and relatively steep downswing. To learn this technique, try laying a headcover down a couple of feet behind the ball at setup. Practice taking your backswing without making contact with the headcover. This will force the desired, abrupt takeaway and steep downswing, leading to better contact and increased spin.


#16 16. Stroke Chips
Try chipping with a true linear motion, just as you do when stroking a putt. This is a much easier motion than that required for a standard chip. First, hold your wedge in the same manner as you’d hold your putter, with the grip in your fingers and your thumbs running directly down the top of the shaft. Next, position your body over the ball and assume the same stance as you do when putting, with your eyes directly over the golf ball. To execute a true linear chipping stroke, simply rock your shoulders and sweep the clubhead back and then through. This linear movement will make those delicate pitch shots easier to control.

#17 17. Chop It Out
If you find yourself with a treacherous lie in long, wet grass, consider the chop shot. With your most lofted club, address the ball so that it’s in the center of your stance and with the majority of your weight positioned over your front foot. As for the swing, just think about the motion you’d use to chop wood. Make both on the backswing and the downswing as steep as you can. The key to this shot is the lack of followthrough—swing to impact only. This will augment your steep arc and allow the loft of the club to carry the ball high and help it land softly.

#18 18. Perfect Pitch
If you master the key elements of pitching and chipping, you’ll discover an immediate improvement in your scores. One of these key elements is to move your back knee toward your front knee as you transfer your weight to your front side on the downswing. The rear knee should move forward in time with the downward motion of the clubhead so that, at impact, your weight is evenly distributed over both sides of your body. The mental image of two cymbals placed on the inside of both knees clanging at the point of contact is one that helps many golfers attain a solid pitch impact position.

#19 19. Apply Pressure
Consistent grip pressure during the putting stroke is crucial for good execution. One way to help maintain consistent grip pressure is to learn to create equal inward force in both hands. This should be a result of one hand applying inward force equal to that applied by the opposite hand throughout the stroke. On the takeaway (for right-handed golfers), the left hand should apply pressure toward the right hand while the right hand resists. On the forwardstroke, the right hand should push toward the left hand while the left hand provides equal and opposite resistance. To get a feel for this equal inward pressure, open your hands with your palms facing each other. Place a closed book between your two open palms and assume your putting stance. A dictionary should do the trick. Make a putting stroke back and through without dropping the book. Can you feel the equal inward pressure in both hands? While doing this drill, your shoulders should naturally rock back and forth. Learn the sensation of inward, even pressure with both hands, and your putting stroke—and scores—should improve dramatically.

#20 20. Grip Weak For Strong Lobs
Few shots on the golf course are more satisfying than a well-executed flop shot. Unfortunately, unless you’re Phil Mickelson, the risk is probably not worth the reward. There’s very little margin for error. With the wrong lie, you can swing the club under the ball without advancing it. And, with such a big swing, you’re liable to hit an 80-yard screamer if you catch it thin. Here’s an alternative technique to try the next time you need a wedge shot to fly high and land softly. Weaken your left-hand grip (for right-handers), turning your hand under the club so that your left palm faces more toward the sky. With your left hand in this weakened position, the clubface will remain open through the hitting zone and your shot will be shorter and fly higher than normal and land like a butterfly with sore feet.


#21 21. Ride The Rails
You’ll enjoy the best putting results with a stroke that travels straight back and through along the target line. To build such a stroke, position two yardsticks on the ground so that the head of your putter barely fits between them, with about a 1__ã4-inch margin on each side. You’ll be using a ball in this drill, so you’ll need a target. I recommend using something significantly smaller than an actual hole—a quarter, for instance, or the leg of a chair. Your target should be six to 10 feet away. Concentrate on keeping the putterhead inside the two yardsticks, or rails. If you do, you’ll increase your chances of striking the ball directly on the sweet spot, and hitting the ball on the sweet spot is absolutely essential for gaining not only accuracy, but distance control.

#22 22. Straight Arm
Keep your left arm straight may be an overused swing thought, but it’s very useful for greenside chips. From the light rough around the green, try this technique: Using a 7-iron, take a narrow stance, keeping the majority of your weight on your front foot. With your hands forward, make a simple pendulum swing. Accelerate through the ball into a finish that’s as long or slightly longer than your backswing. Above all, keep that left arm straight well into your finish. If you keep your wrist firm, you’ll experience consistent, squared contact (adjust for distance by the length of your backswing).

#23 23. Pitching Setup
Hitting crisp pitch shots begins with hitting down on the ball, and good players know that to hit down, they need to set up on top of the ball. Good pitchers assume a narrow stance with the ball positioned in the middle or back of the stance and with their weight favoring the front leg. This setup places the head on top of the ball and the hands in front of the golf ball. It also promotes a downward angle of attack, facilitating ball-first contact. The tendency with a high-handicapper is to try to lift the ball in the air. As such, most amateurs lean back on the rear foot at address and scoop the ball at impact. This setup promotes a sweeping motion, which can lead to fat and thin pitches.

#24 24. Four-Line Setup
Unlike the golf swing, there are almost no centrifugal forces at work in the putting stroke. Therefore, whatever you do at address pretty much determines what you’ll do with the putter during the stroke.

In studying the best players on Tour, it’s easy to find common denominators in both their setup positions and strokes. Obviously, there are exceptions to every rule, but for the most part, common traits run rampant in the setup positions of great performers on the green. Four lines define these commonalities.

1 The first line runs from the eyes to the inside edge of the golf ball. When the eyes are in alignment over the inside edge of the golf ball, the player is better able to line up the putter to his or her target and visually track the line on which the ball will travel.
2 The second line runs from the shoulders straight down through the arms and hands. When the hands and arms are in alignment under the shoulders, the player can swing them back and through naturally, creating the optimal putterhead path.
3 The third line bisects the center of the hips and the heels. The proper alignment of the hips and heels creates balance and stability during the stroke. When a player is centered, stable and in balance, he or she can attain consistent, solid contact.
4 The fourth line is drawn from the puttershaft through the inside edge of the forearms. This line is achieved by placing the grip of the putter more through the palms than in the fingers. By aligning the shaft and the forearms, a single lever is created, resulting in optimal control during the stroke.

#25 25. Flatten It Out
Establishing and maintaining a flat left wrist throughout the putting stroke is the key to rolling the ball consistently. For one, it keeps the left wrist from rotating, and if the wrist doesn’t rotate, the putterface can’t open or close. One thing you can do to encourage a flat left wrist in your putting stroke is to use a shorter putter (33 inches should do the trick). This will allow your left arm (and everything attached) to hang straight from the shoulder. Also, position the ball off the front foot. This will flatten the left wrist and help line it up with the outside of the left shoulder.

 

Cure Your Bunker BluesBunkers elicit a common reaction from most recreational golfers. That reaction is fear–fear of leaving the ball in the bunker, fear of blasting it over the green, fear of looking foolish, etc.–and it stems from misunderstanding how a sand wedge is designed to function.

Look at your sand wedge. Notice how the trailing or back edge of the club is lower than the leading edge. That angle is called bounce and it’s what allows a sand wedge to slide through the sand. To create this sliding action, the back edge must enter the sand before the leading edge, which is designed to dig into the ground.

In order for the trailing edge of your wedge to strike the sand first, your bunker swing must include four essential components. To discover if you’re using the proper technique, try to hit 15- to 20-yard shots from a greenside bunker with a 7-iron. To pull off this shot, your technique will require the critical features of a successful bunker swing, which are as follows.

1. The clubface must be open at address Opening the face effectively exposes the all-important bounce of your sand wedge, which allows it to easily slide under the golf ball. With the 7-iron shot, you’ll need to open the face a good deal in order to create enough height to carry the lip.

2. You must sit down in your stance Get set with most of your weight in your heels, with your stance open to the target line by five to 10 yards.

3. Swing the club on a shallow plane–or more around your body_Ê This flatter (compared to steep) swing is what allows the trailing edge of the club to enter the sand first. Your divot should point left of the intended target.

4. Hold the clubface open through impact Don’t release the club–you’ll risk burying the wedge into the side instead of sliding through it. To keep the clubface open through impact, your body must continue to turn. In fact, you must turn until, at the finish, your weight is over your forward foot and the clubface points toward the sky.

Practice shots with your 7-iron until you can successfully blast out of the bunker three of every four shots. Then, try the same shot with your sand wedge, using the same principles. With the sand wedge, you won’t need to open your stance or clubface as much and your swing plane won’t be nearly as flat, since you’ll be standing closer to the golf ball. The best part of the 7-iron drill is that it instills confidence. After all, if you can hit a 7-iron out of a greenside bunker, how easy will it be with a sand wedge?

Rob Stock is an assistant golf professional at Farmington Country Club in Charlottesville, Va., and is a former Dave Pelz Short Game instructor

5 Steps To Up and DownIt’s been well documented that a solid short game is the key to consistently shooting lower scores. A vital part of the short-game mix is the finesse shot, typically from within 100 yards of the green. On a finesse shot, your mindset must be quite different from that applied to the full swing. For example, when hitting a shot with a full swing, your goal is to hit the ball as hard and far as possible. When playing a finesse shot, however, your goal is to hit the ball short and soft. You can see this difference in attitude and approach when a player like Tiger Woods blasts a tee shot over 300 yards, then proceeds to float a soft, delicate pitch to within inches of the cup. Here are the five basic fundamentals that make up the common thread behind a player’s ability to consistently get the ball up and down.

Swing Length
A key to any well-executed golf shot is a golf club that smoothly accelerates through the impact area. Most recreational golfers, when trying to hit the ball a short distance, have the fear of hitting the ball too far. This results in the player quitting on the shot with an abbreviated followthrough. The key to acceleration, as well as maintaining a consistent rhythm, is matching the length of the swing on both sides of the ball. It’s important when learning finesse shots to experience and understand that the length of the backswing dictates how far the ball will travel. A shorter backswing results in a short shot, whereas a longer swing results in a higher, longer shot. It’s very difficult to hit short shots with long swings and long shots with short swings. Lastly, make sure the followthrough is at least of equal length, and you’ll be in perfect balance.

Small-Muscle Relaxation
Small muscles are considered those of the hands, wrists and arms. Far too often, players tense up these muscle groups in finesse situations. Tension causes the hands and arms to become overactive, creating a hitting sensation through contact. Hitting, rather than swinging, creates all kinds of problems in the form of poor contact and distance control. When playing finesse shots, make it a point to focus on keeping your small muscles relaxed and passive. This will allow the club to swing naturally in a smooth, rhythmic fashion. Imagine a scale running from zero to 10, where 10 is the tightest. Find a hand and arm pressure of 3 to build small-muscle relaxation.

Body Motion
Many people feel if they don’t have to hit the ball a long way, then they shouldn’t use their body. As a result, I see a lot of people hitting only with their hands and arms. Wrong. The body plays a vital role in finesse shots. Getting the body involved provides power for the swing, allowing the hands and arms to remain relaxed and passive. Allow your body to pivot in response to the swinging golf club. To feel some body motion, toss a ball to a target 30 feet away. Notice how the body pivots in response to the tossing motion. Apply that same feel to your chips and pitches to build necessary harmony between your club and body.
_Ê
Rhythm
Rhythm, rhythm, rhythm, I can’t say it enough–it’s the glue that holds your mechanics together. Your rhythm should match your goals. If you’re looking for soft, controllable contact, then you should swing in a soft, even rhythm. Picture the rhythm of a swinging pendulum on a grandfather clock. One, two, tick-tock, back, through! Count out your rhythm as you swing to build a smooth repeatable pace.

Ball Position
In the finesse game, creating different contacts and different trajectories requires different ball positions. When faced with a finesse situation, visualize the kind of flight you want to create, then select the appropriate shot, club and corresponding ball position. As a general rule, play the ball more toward your back foot on all short-range chips. This helps produce a lower trajectory and get the ball rolling on the green as soon as possible. For medium- and high-trajectory pitches, favor a centered ball position. And to facilitate sand-first contact when attempting a bunker blast, play the ball forward in your stance.

Regardless of the finess shot you’re playing, keep in mind these four principles and you’ll execute consistently to the best of your ability.

PGA professional Jeff Ritter is the director of instruction at the ASU Karsten Academy, and also teaches at Nike Junior Golf Camps nationwide.

Know When To Fold EmThe plethora of multiple wedge offerings is fantastic. They’ve made extinct the old saying a sand wedge is the only wedge a good player needs. That adage came from Greg Norman, who I bet has added a lob wedge to his set since. Nevertheless, despite owning the tools for hitting any number of specific yardages from 125 yards and in, most short shots you’ll face will require something much different than a full swing from one of the two or three wedges in your bag.

Say you have a 45-yard shot to the green. They don’t make a 70-degree utility wedge for that scenario. Instead, you’ll have to choke down and make partial swings with either your pitching wedge, sand wedge, gap wedge or lob wedge. Now, throw a bunker between you and the pin. Your shot options narrow a bit. But do you make a 75-percent swing with your lob wedge or a 50-percent swing with your sand wedge? Confusing, huh? Not only are you torn between two clubs, but you’re also stuck between two swings.

What if I was to tell you that it’s possible to handle any short yardage situation from 85 yards and in with a single swing? Wouldn’t that be nice? Well, that’s certainly a reality. You can create different trajectories and distances from a single swing by simply learning to open and close the face of your sand wedge. Maybe The Shark was right; a sand wedge is the only wedge a good player really needs. The key is to control the face. Here’s how.

First Things First
Most recreational players have a difficult time with short shots when, in fact, those should be the easiest to execute. Wedge shots feature less speed with a shorter shaft and don’t require the turn, coil and weight shift as do full-swing shots. The number-one mistake amateurs make with a short shot is failing to set the club. By that I mean they rush it from the top, using way too much lower body action and creating sudden bursts of power that either destroy contact or make consistently hitting specific distances next to impossible.

SetupThe setup is key. For starters, create an open stance. The short-game swing is too short to effectively transfer weight from the rear foot to the front foot. So, preset it. Flare your front foot open and plant your weight on your left side (for right-handed golfers). Since you’re not looking for power, go ahead and pin your right elbow to your right side–this will help keep your club on plane. As for the takeaway, move the club away with your hands and maintain a steady head. Shoulder high is about as far back you’d want to take your hands.

If you can get to this position, you’re set. From here, the worst thing you can do is panic. With a short swing, many golfers feel they don’t have enough energy stored to hit the ball the desired distance. Trust me, you do. With a wedge shot, centered contact is more important than speed. So, at the top, be patient. Don’t rush the downswing. In fact, during your practice, take the club to the end of the backswing and pause. Then begin your downswing, which, like the backswing, is fueled by the arms and hands. Remember, your lower body and left side are already turned out of the way. If you’d like, focus on moving your hands along the same route they took away from the ball. Once you reach impact, fight the urge to raise the hands into a high finish. I’m sure you’ve heard me say this before, but it bears repeating: In golf, you shake hands like a gentleman; you don’t high-five. In other words, postimpact, extend your right hand as if you were going to shake with a person standing immediately to your left along your target line. See how your right shoulder turns underneath your chin as you do so? That’s a forgotten key that pays big dividends.

Notice how I’ve failed to mention the head. That’s done purposefully, for in a good wedge swing, the head remains back and relatively still and always remains between your two shoulders. If you’re prone to shanking your short shots, the culprit might be your head. In a shank, the club at impact is closer to the ball than it was at address. If you move your head down, your body, arms and shaft will follow. Now, the hosel is in the way. Same goes if you typically strike short shots thinly. This time, your head is moving up. Keep your head steady and allow your right shoulder to move fluidly underneath it.


Check The ToeCheck The Toe When Squaring The Face
A perfect swing can yield an off-line shot if what you thought was a square face at address was actually open a few degrees. It’s a common phenomenon among the recreational ranks. For foolproof face alignment, check the toe of the club and its relation to the hosel. Simply eyeing the face won’t work.

Learn The Short-Shot Basics
The wedge shot is not a full-swing shot, so it needs special attention at the setup. Since there isn’t enough time in the wedge swing to get your left side out of the way and shift weight to your front foot, set your weight forward at address and adopt a slightly open stance. Now all you need to do is take the club back and through (without rushing or overaccelerating). To guarantee centered contact, hitch your right elbow to your side and keep it there until impact. This is an effective way to keep the club on plane and make clean, crisp contact with the golf ball.

The golf swing is both down and through
In its simplest form, the short shot is simply down and through. Your hands lead the club down to the ball, then the rotation of your rear shoulder under your chin leads it through. At the finish, you should be able to shake hands with an imaginary person on your left, which means the hands remain low.

Open For Business
With a grooved sand wedge swing, you now have all you need to hit a variety of distances and produce varying trajectories. Opening or closing the face at address accomplishes this. For less distance and more loft, rotate the face open. For more distance or to produce a lower trajectory, simply close the face.

When opening or closing the face, never look at the center of the club. Doing so can give you an inaccurate reading of just how far open or closed you’ve rotated the face. Instead, look to the toe. Imagine a line running from your stance line through the hosel. How does that line look at the toe? If it’s left of the toe, then the face is open. If it’s right, then the face is closed.

For both open- and closed-face shots, use the same stance described above. Of course, the more you open the face, the more left of target you should align your feet at address, and vice versa for closed-face shots. Regardless, both shots require a slightly open stance with the majority of weight situated over the front hip and leg.

Flight Control
Let’s imagine a 30-yard shot. If the pin were up, I’d opt to open the face and hit a high shot that drops and stops immediately upon landing. If the pin is back, then I’d close the face and hit a lower shot, planning to land short of the pin and letting the ball run to the hole once it lands. Either way, I make the same swing with only a slight change in backswing length. This seems to be where most recreational players have difficulty. Maybe this bit of advice will help. For the first shot, the 30-yard high-lofter, I take my hands back to my waist. For the lower shot, I stop my backswing at my knees. From these two 30-yard options, I can build backswings to match varying lengths. Say the shot is 60 yards. To hit it high, I open the face and take my hands back to shoulder level; for the low runner, I’ll stop my hands at my waist.

The next time you practice, bring only your sand wedge. Pick a target 30 yards away. Open the face and see how far a backswing you need to land the ball that distance. Now, close the face and see just how much you need to shorten your backswing to hit the same yardage. It’s a perfect way to learn distance control and improve your wedge swing at the same time. In a single practice session, you’ll groove a feel for specific yardages without much effort.


Wedge CloseupSpin
Many of my students ask how they can add more spin to their wedge shots. Adding spin is key–it affords yet another option from short distances. Typical instruction says that in order to add spin, you must pinch the ball against the turf. That’s true, but in trying to create the pinch, most golfers simply speed up on the downswing, a huge no-no. The first step is to understand how spin is created. Spin results from the ball rolling up the clubface, a phenomenon affected by the size and depth of your grooves. The more the ball rolls up the face, the more it will spin. It makes sense, then, that for more spin, ball contact should be made lower on the face, giving the ball more time to roll up the grooves. Enter scoring lines 2 and 3. For the most spin, create contact near the bottom grooves rather than those in the middle or toward the top. Usually when I offer this advice, students scull the ball. Crucial to this technique is striking the ball with a descending blow. In a good wedge swing, the club moves down and through. If it only moves down, be prepared for a fat shot. If it only moves through, expect to hit your next chip from beyond the other side of the green.

Conclusion
March Madness is over, and the NBA playoffs are in full swing. If you’re like me, you’ve watched a lot of basketball on TV the last few months. I’ve also watched how the good teams rise to the top–with skillful guard play. The guard is the most important position on a basketball team. Guards run the plays and they dictate tempo and control the offensive, passing the ball to the open man and sometimes driving the lane for a layup. Funny, the typical point guard is the smallest member of the team, yet his or her contributions are the biggest. Slam dunks, turnaround jumpers_Ê and alley-oops may garner the most cheers, but they mean nothing without the guard setting the scene.

The same scenario applies to golf: the short game is the least exciting, but it means everything to your game. Big hits are impressive, but if you drive it to 100 yards of the green and can’t do anything with it, well, then you’re not going to advance very far. In my 50-plus years of teaching, I’ve always emphasized the short game. Turning three shots into two will make you a better player than adding 10 yards to your average drive. If you’re already a decent wedge player, great. But if you really want to become a short-game expert, you must learn how to effectively close and open the face to match the situation at hand.

Senior Instruction Editor Marshall Smith has taught the game for more than 50 years. Currently, Smith works with PGA Tour player Todd Fischer. He instructs at Peoria Ridge GC in Miami, Okla. Special thanks to instruction model Clayton Shumaker.

 

Build A Wedge SystemControlling your wedge distances is more difficult than you think. The key is to benchmark your yardages with a three-swing system. Since we can no longer make a full swing, we must create a simple method of defining swing length as it relates to ball carry distance. First, I make a quarter-length swing, where my hands finish about waist high. Second, the half-swing, where I gauge my left arm position as being level to the ground. Finally, my three-quarter-length swing, where my hands reach shoulder high.

Common among all three swings is that the wrists hinge fully and the followthrough mirrors the backswing in terms of length.

Rhythm
The critical element to building a simple repeatable system is linking the swings together with a soft, even rhythm. Think of creating a pendulum swing, where your rhythm moves in a soft yet upbeat fashion, much like a swinging pendulum on a grandfather clock. Make some rehearsal swings saying the rhythm out loud (One, two). It’s this type of rhythm that will create a soft, controllable contact and build distance control.

Perfect Practice
Hit a few shots with each swing (1__ã4, 1__ã2, 3__ã4). Once you get the balls to carry a predictable distance, locate a mark for your three basic wedge yardages. For example, the distance progressions with my sand wedge are 30, 50 and 70 yards. Focus on each target and make the appropriate-length swing. Work on gauging your swing length and rhythm needed to hit each target.

Advanced Technique
When getting started, focus on developing a solid feel for your distances with your sand wedge. Once you feel confident, try to benchmark your yardages with a pitching wedge and lob wedge. In the end, you’ll have a total of nine solid distances inside of 100 yards.

Incorporating these simple techniques into your game is sure to improve your wedge game.

PGA professional Jeff Ritter is the director of instruction at the ASU Karsten Academy and also teaches at Nike Junior Golf Camps nationwide.

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